Pesto Streudel and Panzanella Salad

panzanella1 Now that it's summer, my counters are teeming with beautiful red tomatoes and my fridge is packed with brightly-colored produce of all sorts: radishes, favas, beets, strawberries, you name it. It's a welcome change from the endless supply of potatoes, yams, potatoes, and kale, oh, the kale. Thank goodness I've got some red back in my life!

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Of course, with beets and radishes come a whole new type of greens -- the kind attached to the stems of the beets and the radishes, of course. Both are too often overlooked -- especially radish greens, for which I've never seen a recipe. Until now.

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Here's the thing. Pesto? It doesn't just have to be basil in there. Stick in some cilantro and call it chimichurri or -- better yet -- send some radish greens under the knife and start to enjoy what too often ends up in the disposal (or, in my case, the compost bin. Yay!)

Radish greens are best used within a couple days of buying or picking them, so they're a bit more finicky than basil. But they're spicy and a little bitter like arugula, and quite flavorful. They're also almost always attached to the radishes you buy, so why not use them? I've blended them up with walnuts and pinenuts, and they pair beautifully with both. But I've got a lingering curiosity about how they'd play with pecans, so if you try it, lemme know.

Last time I made this, I stuffed it in phyllo dough for a variation on spanikopita. Radish leaves contain a fair amount of water, so I'd recommend putting the ground leaves into a fine mesh strainer to let some of the liquid drain out. After that's done, feel free to add any other things you'd like. I've added Parmesan before, which is quite nice, but since this last time I was going for a Greek theme, I opted with feta cheese and liked it even more. I also added a squeeze or two of lemon, which gives the pesto some tang and has the added benefit of delaying oxidation (when pesto hits the air and turns brownish).

As you can see from the pictures and the post title, we ate this streudel with Panzanella, or bread salad. I can't say I have a recipe; we really just used the vegetables from this week's trip to the farmers' market, and any vegetables will work. The key is to have some good, juicy, ripe tomatoes in there, whose juices will seep into the pieces of bread. Other than that, no rules -- sky's the limit.

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Radish-Beet Pesto Streudel

I know this recipe is really rough and that the measurements are as imprecise as can be -- but this is one of those things that is ever so contingent upon your tastebuds. If you're nervous, start with 3/4 of the greens and 3/ 4 of the nuts, and after you've blended that quantity, start tasting and adjusting until you achieve your preferred balance of greens to nuts.

1 bunch (about 1 1/2 cups) radish leaves, rinsed and dried 1 bunch (about 3 1/2 cups) beet leaves, rinsed, dried, and ripped into large pieces 1 1/2 cups walnuts or pinenuts salt and pepper 1 cup feta cheese, crumbled juice of half a lemon, optional

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Set phyllo dough out on the counter, in its box, until thawed, at least half an hour.

Chop greens in a food processor. Transfer to a fine mesh strainer set over a bowl, and either leave for an hour to let the liquids drain out, or (much more efficient) press on the greens to expel their liquid. Return to the food processor.

Add nuts and blend until the pesto is your preferred consistency (I like this radish-beet pesto quite smooth with only a few very small chunks, but others like it super chunky -- up to you). Add cheese, and give the processor a couple quick pulses just until the cheese is incorporated. Taste and adjust for salt, and add pepper and lemon if desired.

Remove the plastic covering from the phyllo dough, unroll it, and cover it with a slightly damp towel; this will prevent the sheets from drying out and turning brittle.

On a rimmed baking sheet covered with a piece of parchment paper or tin foil, place one layer of phyllo dough and brush lightly with olive oil. Cover with a second sheet of phyllo dough. Repeat five times, until you have six layers of phyllo dough stacked on top of each other with a thin layer of olive oil in between (if you have five or seven layers, please don't sweat it).

With one of the long ends facing you, spread the pesto horizontally about a third of the way from the edge closest to you, leaving about 1 inch at either end. You'll be rolling the up the streudel along the long edge of the dough. Start rolling the filo away from you, making sure the pesto stays inside the dough as much as possible (if it leaks out a bit, no worries). Pause at the halfway point to tuck the edges into the roll (or be lazy like me and leave it open, though the pesto will seep out during baking). Brush the top with a little olive oil and bake at 350 for about 25 minutes, until the top is golden and whatever filling has seeped out is bubbling.

Panzanella Salad with Fava Beans

Ingredients

Several handfuls of fresh lettuce, whatever is on hand is fine The best tomato (or cherry tomatoes, in my case, though large ones are preferable) you can get your hands on 2 mediterranean little cucumbers or 1 regular cucumber, chopped 1 lb. fava beans, shucked, blanched, and peeled ** 2 slices or 1 big hunk of good, crusty bread that's a couple days old, cut or ripped into squares or small pieces 1/8 cup olive oil 1/8 cup red wine vinegar salt pepper

Mix vegetables, favas, and bread together in a medium salad bowl. In a separate smaller bowl or dressing container, mix oil, vinegar, and salt and pepper to taste. About ten minutes before serving, shake dressing well and drizzle over salad. Toss to combine, and allow to sit for a bit until the bread starts to soak up the dressing. Serve.

**To prepare favas, start by popping open the pods and picking out the beans. The beans are coated in a waxy outer layer that also needs to be removed; to do this, cook fava beans in medium saucepan of boiling salted water until just tender, about 1 1/2 minutes. Drain. Rinse under cold water; drain well. Peel fava beans and set aside. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

Avocado Tomato Salad

avocado-tomato-salad-4 summer-produce-1

It'd be a shame to spend too much of this day indoors, because it's beautiful outside and I have an all-day pool pass -- so I'm going to keep this short: It's summer, people! That means I'm barely to be seen at the grocery store, stocking up on fruit and veggies almost exclusively at the three nearby farmers' markets to supplement my CSA. I'm high on summer produce.

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Avocados and tomatoes are especially excellent right now. Tomatoes haven't quite hit their peak, but I picked up some beautiful heirlooms this morning and we enjoyed them in salad, with a bit of salt and not much else. Last week, I had some beautiful on-the-vine tomatoes in the house, as well as some perfectly ripe avocados and some baby lettuce from a friend's garden, so I threw together a really simple salad that's definitely going to be a staple on my plate this season. It's just lettuce, avocados, tomatoes, a crumble or two of my usual Keswick Creamery feta, and some lemon, salt, and pepper. It doesn't get much simpler or better than that. avocado-tomato-salad-3

As you can see, we enjoyed this salad both in the bowl and atop a bagel and lox leftover from my dear friend Dellie's med school graduation party. Congrats, Dr. Sorel! So proud!

If I could make one suggestion for summer eating, it would be to Keep It Simple (excuse the weird capitalization). Let the produce speak for itself -- it doesn't need much to sing.

Happy Summer, everyone!

Wheatberry Salad with Cranberries, Feta, and Mint

wheatberrysalad1 Yet another installment of my weekday lunch series; you can never have enough recipes for midday workplace eats.

I don't have anything to share about this recipe that's particularly exciting. It's just another rendition of my standard grain+bean+berry+herb salad formula. But I realized as I made this salad that it was my first time making wheatberries. At least, I'm pretty sure it was my first time -- in any event, it definitely won't be my last. Wheatberries are pretty underrated, so much so that when I served them last Friday night, most everyone around the table asked what they were. "Wheat," I replied. No one got it; "What part of the wheat? Like, they're really just wheat? Are they some sort of berries that grow off the wheat crop?" No, I replied, it's really just wheat. Funny that we don't know what the food we eat most often actually looks like, but that's a story for another time.

Wheatberries are sweet and nutty, with a nice solid texture. They're probably super versatile; I can envision them in a variety of salads, soups, and stews. Writing that line, I just remembered that I've actually used wheatberries before, when making the Sephardic version of cholent, the rib-sticking stew made on Friday and cooked at a low temperature through the night. Unlike the Eastern European recipe of barley, beans, potatoes, beef, and eggs, the Sephardic version, called "Hamin," is made with wheatberries, chickpeas, and dates in addition to the beef, chicken, and other leftovers. The wheatberries are cooked inside cheesecloth wrapper within the dish, so they can be piled separately onto the plate as a bed for the rest of the goodies.

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Hamin is for another day. This here salad is simple and fresh, and it's a great way to make use of any leftover herbs you may have. I used cranberries, mint, black eyed peas, and Keswick Creamery feta (the best feta on earth, btw -- would you believe it's cheaper than the imitation crap at the grocery store?), but I can envision an equally delicious version with feta, sundried tomatoes, basil, and navy beans, or with cilantro, kidney beans, fresh tomatoes, and some chipotle en adobo. I made a super-tangy vinaigrette with some Honeycup honey mustard, fresh lemon, salt, pepper, chopped shallot, and olive oil -- but any old vinaigrette would do just fine. My pics don't have the feta, because I put it in just before serving -- but don't leave it out; it adds a brininess that plays really well with the sweet tartness of the cranberries and the freshness of the mint.

Wheatberry Salad with Cranberries, Feta, and Mint

1 cup wheatberries (available at natural foods stores) 1 can or 1 cup dried black eyed peas 1/2 cup diced or crumbled Feta 1/2 cup thinly sliced red onion 1/2 cup dried cranberries, cherries, or other dried berries 1/2 cup chopped mint 5 tablespoons olive oil 5 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, or to taste 1 tablespoon mustard (I like a sharp honey mustard) freshly cracked pepper, to taste

In a pot of boiling salted water, cook the wheat berries for 1 hour, or until they are tender, and drain them. (At this stage, the wheatberries can be stored for several days in a covered container until ready to use.) In a small bowl, mix lemon juice, olice oil, salt, pepper, and mustard. Whisk to combine, and adjust as necessary. In a large bowl stir together the wheat berries and all other ingredients. Toss to combine. Serve cold or room temperature.

Pickled Cauliflower

pickled-cauli-1 I absolutely love sour things. I've been known to suck on a lemon slice once in a while, just for kicks (though my dentist scolded me for doing it, so I reluctantly put the habit to rest). When it comes to pickles, I'm a full-sour kinda gal. None of that dill or bread-n-butter stuff; I like'em super super sour. I'm into cucumber pickles, but I can't say that they're my favorite -- not by a long shot. No, my absolute favorite pickle is a pickled green tomato, especially if it's from Guss' Pickles on the Lower East Side. My first time at Guss' was on an 8th grade class trip, when we stopped there very briefly on our way back from grabbing knishes, bialys, deli, and other LES specialties. I remember watching friends get themselves just one pickle, or two. When I looked deep into the plastic tub in front of me and saw green tomato quarters, bobbing up and down in the brine, I knew that's what I had to have. Sadly, Guss didn't sell the tomatoes by the single back then -- only by the pound. Obviously, I bought myself a pound of pickled green tomatoes. Reluctant to waste, I ate them all. Boy were they good.

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Not to dismiss cukes, but compared to the tomatoes and other exotic pickled things, they're kind of ordinary. I can promise you that this cauliflower recipe is anything but. I originally published this recipe in an article I did for My Jewish Learning on Israeli Independence Day, but these sour, cardamom-spiked florets are great year-round.

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Before I send you off with this recipe, I want to just make note of a couple housekeeping items: first, I finally figured out how to set up comment threads, so now we can all respond to each other's comments, which is very exciting for me, since I've been wondering how to do it for almost two years.

Second, the link to my current coveted cookbook, Bittersweet, was apparently taking everyone to my last coveted cookbook, A Platter of Figs. That's a great cookbook -- but so is Bittersweet, so now the link works.

Lastly, can you hang in there for a weekend? I'm away for a couple days, but I'll be back Sunday with more delicious things to make and eat...

Pickled Cauliflower

update: thanks to reader Rachel who pointed out that the recipe should read 3 TEASPOONS salt and not 3 Tablespoons. Egad! Sorry, Rachel! 3 tsp. coriander seeds 1 tsp. turmeric ½ tsp. white mustard seeds ½ tsp. cumin seeds ½ tsp. celery seeds, optional 3 bay leaves Pinch cayenne pepper, optional 1 head cauliflower, washed and separated into florets 1 large carrot, sliced into thick chunks ½ a small yellow onion, sliced into half-moons 1 ½ cups white wine or plain white vinegar 3 tbsp. sugar 3 tsp. kosher salt

Bring a 2-quart saucepan of salted water to a boil. Boil the cauliflower and carrots for 3 minutes; drain and transfer to a large bowl. Add the onion and stir to combine. In a large sealable container (canning jars will work, but are not required if you plan to eat the salad soon and store in the fridge), add half the total amount of each spice (not including the sugar and salt). If dividing the salad among several jars, divide half the total amount of each spice among the jars, saving the other half to top the vegetables. Add the vegetables into the container(s), leaving about ¾ " of space at the top of each container. In a 4-quart saucepan, bring 2 cups water and all the sugar and salt to a boil over high heat, stirring occasionally until fully dissolved. Add vinegar and stir to combine.

Pour the vinegar solution into the container(s), leaving ½” of space below each rim. Close or seal container(s) and transfer to the refrigerator. Allow to marinate at least 24 hours before serving; the longer you wait, the better.