Green Beans Vinaigrette with Feta and Cherries

Until last year, I didn't know green beans' season. I didn't even know they had a season. I saw them in the grocery store pretty much year round, so I assumed they were one of those magical vegetables that could grow through the frost.

Not so: green beans have a season, and that season is right now. Take a closer look at the green beans at your local market, and you'll quickly notice the difference between them and the ones your grocery store displays during other times of the year. Summer beans are a light, bright green. their pods are smooth and taught, and when you bend one, it only goes so far before that satisfying *snap.* Looking at the pod, you shouldn't be able to tell where the beans are within. If the beans protrude enought that they betray their shape through the pod, that green bean is either out of season, or very old.

I usually think of green beans as a side dish. I cook them szechuan-style to serve in rice bowls, blanch them and serve with pesto alongside a belly of salmon, and add them to green salads to lend some heft. But with a few flourishes, green beans can be the star of the show. Now that they're hitting their stride, I've taken to blanching a few pounds at once, keeping them in the fridge, and using them in different weekday lunch options throughout the week. This dish is a recent favorite.

Yes, cherries--again!--because, well, I can't get enough. These ones are dried, and if you can't find dried cherries, you certainly can substitute raisins, currants, or cranberries. As for feta, please use the full-fat stuff. and good-quality If you live in the Mid-Atlantic, I really love Keswick Creamer's Feta de Provence and Feta with Dill and Chives. If not, look for a rich, creamy feta whose flavor you enjoy alone.

You could easily double the vinaigrette recipe and store it in a jar on the counter (or, if you're particularly nervous about food safety, the fridge). With pre-blanched green beans and ready-to-go vinaigrette, this is weekday lunch at the ready.

Green Beans with Feta and Cherries Vinaigrette

8 oz. green beans 2 tablespoons minced shallot 1 tablespoon red wine vinegar 1 teaspoon honey 1 teaspoon grainy mustard 1/4 cup dried cherries reconstituted in 1/2 cup boiling water for 30 minutes 1/4 cup creamy feta cheese salt and pepper to taste

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Fill a large bowl with ice cubes and water and set aside.

Add green beans to boiling water, cover, and cook 2-3 minutes, until green beans are crisp-tender. Check a green bean at 2 minutes and 2:30 to check for doneness - don't let these beans go limp.

As soon as beans are perfectly crisp tender - and not a minute later - strain beans into the bowl of ice water to "shock" them: this stops the cooking immediately and preserves the beans' bright green color.

Strain beans out of ice water and blot dry with a towel. Dump ice water. Transfer back into the bowl that contained the ice water.

In a small bowl, combine all ingredients except feta and cherries. Whisk with a fork to combine, then pour over beans and toss until all beans are coated with the vinaigrette.

Fold in cherries and feta cheese, taking care to keep some chunks of feta along with all the smaller bits. Serve.

The salad will keep well for several hours, so you can prepare it in the morning and eat it for lunch. If making more than a few hours in advance, pack vinaigrette separately from other ingredients, and mix in just before eating.

Summer Squash Quesadillas

Summer squash season is in full swing. As anyone with enough sunlight to grow the stuff will tell you, it grows like a weed. One plant is more than enough to feed two people for the whole summer. Folks with more zucs than they can eat often tell these not-quite-sad stories about struggling to use up their summer squash quickly enough. It's hard to feel bad for them when one little basket of zucchini costs $4 at the market, but I count my blessings - among them, a beautiful herb garden that's got enough chives for omelets all summer long, and three different kinds of mint, all growing at record pace.

Last week at the market, I bought a basket of baby summer squash with the blossoms still attached. Generally, I'd snip off the blossoms, coat them in batter, and fry'em up, but I'd gone to boot camp - people, this boot camp is serious - and I was feeling virtuous. So instead, I chopped them, tossed them with some mexican cheese and slices of the zucchini, and stuffed them into quesadillas.

squash quesadillas9

The recipe is simple, and open to endless riffs and interpretations. We're talking two flour tortillas, whatever fillings you want, and heat. That's it. I've added mushrooms, fresh corn, roasted poblano peppers, cherry tomatoes, you name it.

squash quesadillas5

As I write this, I'm in Austin for work. I'm quite sure the city famous for its migas would frown upon my very yuppified version of a quesadilla, but if I'm going to eat what essentially amounts to two pieces of bread and a bunch of cheese for dinner, I'd like to supplement it with some green. So there you have it.

squash quesadillas1

I was serious about the countless riffs. I've eliminated the mexican cheese entirely, in favor of fresh chevre. It's a totally different thing, but good in its own right. Another option - especially if you're eating this for breakfast, which I would heartily encourage - is to fry an egg into your quesadilla. Here's how it works: scramble an egg. when the pan is hot, pour the egg in, let it spread, and promptly place a flour tortilla over the egg, covering its surface entirely. Pile your toppings onto the tortilla, and depending on how hungry you are, either leave it open-face or put another tortilla overtop. Eggy deliciousness. Or, if you want the eggs inside the quesadilla, scramble them separately and pile them on before adding the second tortilla.

I told you, lots of riffs. I'll stop now - but you shouldn't. These are meant to be a vehicle for whatever is in your fridge. Go crazy.

Summer Squash Quesadillasserves 2, easily doubled

4 flour tortillas 2 small or 1 large summer squash, sliced into coins 1 tablespoon butter or oil a handful of squash blossoms, roughly chopped (if you don't have these, simply add some extra squash) 2 scallions, sliced 1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika 1/2 cup shredded Mexican or pepperjack cheese (or substitute fresh chevre)

salsa or salsa verde, for serving

Set an 8-inch pan over medium heat and add butter or oil. When butter has melted or oil starts to shimmer, add summer squash in a single layer. Add smoked paprika and cook squash coins until lightly browned on one side. Flip or turn coins, add scallions, and cook about 2 more minutes, until the other side is brown. Transfer squash to a plate and set aside.

Put one tortilla down in the pan (no need to add more fat - they shouldn't stick). Add your toppings - first the cheese, then the still-warm squash - and top with a second tortilla. Cook about 3 minutes, until the bottom tortillas is well-browned. Press down on the top tortilla to make sure everything is sticking together, then flip the whole thing so the top tortilla is now on the bottom. Cook 3 more minutes, then transfer to a plate, cut into quarters, and repeat to make the second quesadilla.

Serve with salsa or salsa verde.

Asparagus and Scallion Tart

Asparagus are everywhere right now, and I'm pretty sure they're at their peak. I saw them at three different farmers' markets this week (why I went to three different farmers' markets this week is another story entirely), and most every farmer had them wrapped in nice, tight bundles of 1/2-1 pound each. There are long, skinny ones and short, stubby ones. I'll happily eat them all.

asparagus scallion tart10

If going to 3 farmers' markets in one week isn't absurd enough for you, I currently have about six pounds of asparagus in my fridge. Yes, I'm crazy. But the season isn't very long, and I need to get my fix while I can - not to mention put up a few pounds as pickles.

asparagus scallion tart09

asparagus scallion tart08

asparagus scallion tart07

asparagus scallion tart06

I have one little bundle of purple asparagus - beautiful, sturdy little things - from Smucker Farms. Smucker Farms is an Amish market at 14th and V. It's relatively new, and they're carrying beautiful produce, jarred goods, meat and dairy from local growers and producers. (No, I'm not counting them as one of the markets I visited last week. Yes, I know I'm nuts.) Their asparagus and strawberries looked especially good last week, so I brought home both, along with some chevre.

I couldn't wait on those purple asparagus - they found their way into my eggs the very next day. But this weekend, I did tuck into my massive collection of green asparagus to make this beautiful tart. To my taste, it's got the perfect ratio of vegetable to custard - just enough egg mixture to hold the vegetables together - and it tastes unmistakably of Spring. I think it'd be perfect on your Mothers' Day brunch table tomorrow.

asparagus scallion tart15

asparagus scallion tart14

asparagus scallion tart13

asparagus scallion tart12

The tart shell recipe I used for this tart is from Le Pain Quotidien. I found it on the back of one of those recipe cards they give you with your receipt, which I usually throw away but, this time, blessedly, didn't. I've tucked the recipe into my permanent rotation. A few things set it apart from others I've made: first, no blind-baking. The tart shell gets rolled, fitted, filled, and baked all in one fell swoop. Two, It's got cornstarch in it, which I think makes it extra crispy (the same way it crisps up these "waffles of insane greatness," from the queen of soul herself). Three, it can be made with or without a food processor. Four, it barely shrinks back at all when baked. Lastly, well, it tastes great.

asparagus scallion tart11

And the filling? Not bad, not bad at all. I'm excited with how this came out; if you make it, do let me know if you like it as much as we did.

asparagus scallion tart04

We won't be eating this tart tomorrow. We're having mother's day brunch, but my mom isn't such a quiche person, so I'll be making things that are more up her alley. It's the least I can do, for the woman who taught me to cook and to love cooking.

asparagus scallion tart02

There's some really wonderful writing about Mothers' Day out there this year: don't miss this piece about a mother-daughter trip to a beach resort (and the accompanying write-up from the author's daughter offering some tips for traveling with mom. NYT also has a moving tribute from Timothy Egan on his relationship with his mother, not to be missed. Lastly, Kat Kinsman - managing editor for CNN's Eatocracy blog - wrote about her personal choices on parenting. It's a must-read, as much for parents and those with parenting aspirations as for those who don't want children. Don't miss it.

asparagus scallion tart01

Happy Mothers' Day to all! Have a lovely weekend.

Asparagus and Scallion TartAdapted from Martha Stewart and Le Pain Quotidien

For the tart shell:

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour 1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch 1/4 teaspoon salt 6 tablespoons butter, diced 1 egg, lightly beaten

Combine flour, cornstarch, and salt in a medium bowl. Add butter, and use a pastry blender to cut the butter into the flour until the pieces are the size of peas. Add the egg, and use a fork to combine. Then turn the dough out onto a floured surface, and knead a few times (or more than a few times, if the egg is small and the dough is dry) to bring the dough together. Be patient; the flour takes a few minutes to absorb the egg, and once it does, the dough will more easily come together.

Sprinkle a bit more flour onto the work surface, and roll the dough into a 12-inch disk. Lay into a tart pan, press against the sides, trim off the excess, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

For the filling:

1 tablespoon butter 1 pound asparagus, rinsed, dried, and sliced thinly on the bias 2/3 cup scallions, sliced thinly on the bias 4 eggs 1 1/4 cups half-and-half salt and pepper 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg 3 oz. goat cheese or fresh chevre 1/2 cup gruyere cheese 1/2 cup parmesan cheese

Preheat the oven to 350.

Melt butter in a frying pan over medium heat, and add scallions and asparagus. Toss to coat with the butter, season with a pinch of salt and a few grinds of the pepper mill, and cook about 6 minutes, until asparagus are crisp-tender. Set aside.

In a medium bowl, combine eggs, half-and-half, nutmeg, and 1/2 teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Whisk to combine. Add gruyere cheese, and stir to combine.

Remove tart shell from the fridge and set on a baking sheet. Pour asparagus mixture into the tart shell, distributing evenly. Dot with goat cheese. Pour egg mixture over asparagus; mixture should nearly fill tart shell. Sprinkle grated parmesan cheese overtop, and tuck into the oven for 50 minutes, until top is lightly golden and the center is just set. Cool about 10 minutes, then slice and serve.

Wheatberries with Melted Leeks and a Poached Egg

Leeks aren't exactly a spring vegetable - they've been at the market most of the winter - but spring brings those young, skinny leeks, seemingly born anew in the warm weather, and I positively love them.

It takes a while to soften the big, sturdy leeks of winter, but the spring ones submit almost effortlessly, melting into butter just like shallots would. After not long at all, the leeks are impossibly mild and sweet. They make everything better.

I tucked this first batch into a bowl of just-cooked wheatberries. I left the two to mingle for a few minutes, as the wheatberries went from steaming hot to just warm. Meanwhile, I snipped some fresh chives and poached an egg the control freak way. And then, I sat on our deck, broke my egg over the wheatberries, and ate lunch.

If this is all too pure for you, there are plenty of ways to doll it up. Add some flaked salmon or snapper; toss in some marinated tofu; or chop up some chard or spinach and fold it into the berries. If you're feeling crazy, pour the wheatberries, leeks, and greens into a gratin dish, top with a couple raw eggs, grate some hard cheese overtop, and tuck the dish under the broiler for a few minutes. <That's lunch for company.

Wheatberries with Melted Leeks and Poached Eggs

Serves 2, maybe with leftovers

1 cup wheatberries 3-4 baby leeks or 1-2 large leeks 2 tablespoons butter 4 chives, minced 2 eggs

Bring a pot of salted water (or part water, part broth) to a boil over high heat. Add wheatberries, and once the water has returned to a boil, lower heat, cover pot, and cook about 1 hour, adding extra water if needed, until wheatberries are tender.

Meanwhile, clean the leeks. Slice off the root end of the leeks and the dark green tops - you'll only be using the white and light green parts. Quarter the leeks lengthwhise, then slice them crosswise into small pieces. Clean very well: I do this by dumping the bits of leeks into a strainer set over a bowl, filling the bowl with water, swirling the leeks around to free the dirt, and then straining them by pulling the strainer out of the bowl. If your leeks are from the market, you'll probably need to do this several times to get the leeks thoroughly clean. It's worth it - gritty leeks suck.

Add the butter to a shallow saute pan set over medium heat. When butter has melted, add leeks and a healthy pinch of salt. Stir to combine, and when leeks start to hiss, add a couple tablespoons of water. The water is especially important with bigger leeks, which need some help softening. Now, cover the pan (if you don't have a cover, tin foil will work), turn the heat to medium-low, and let the leeks melt, stirring occasionally and adding more water if it looks like they're browning before they're soft. This should take about 20 minutes. When leeks are melted and soft, remove from the heat.

Drain cooked wheatberries and transfer them to a large bowl. Add leeks and fold together to combine.

Poach the eggs when you're just about ready to eat. There are many ways to do this; my favorite is to poach them in the shell, in just-barely-hot water. I get that isn't exactly unfussy, so you can also just simmer a shallow pot of water with a couple teaspoons of vinegar, swirl a fork around the pot a couple times to get the water moving, add a couple eggs, and poach them for about 2 minutes until the white is just

Spoon the wheatberries into bowls, set the poached eggs on top, and sprinkle the chopped chives over everything. Break the eggs, mix into the wheatberries, and enjoy.