Twice-Baked Sweet Potatoes

I'm back, in the nick of time, with one last side dish to grace your Thanksgiving table (because really, can you ever have enough sides?) By now, you're probably squared away with your stuffing, your Turkey, and those pies. So here's an idea for what to do with all those sweet potatoes. I wouldn't call it a traditional dish, but it's certainly a play on tradition.

I've always loved twice-baked potatoes, with their crisp skin and just enough potato inside to cushion the cheesy filling. So why not twice-bake sweet potatoes? Yes, their flesh is less starchy, and their skins are harder to crisp up. But when you succeed -- and you will succeed - you will reap the rewards of hot, sweet, crunchy, soft, sweet 'taters like you've never had'em before.

raw sweet potatoes

Here's the beauty of this dish. Have a favorite filling for twice-baked potatoes? It'll go great here, too. I'm talking sour cream and cheddar and chives, or parmesan and sage, or whatever you usually use. But you could also take these in a totally different direction, as I did last night. Instead of trying to balance the sweet flesh with a more savory filling, I succumbed to the sweetness. Boy did I ever.

sour cream and maple

Here's what we're doing: we're filling 'tater halves with a mix of sour cream, maple syrup, and crunchy demerara sugar. When I made them, I simply mixed the ingredients together - but I'm recommending that you sprinkle the sugar over everything else. That way you'll have a crunchy, burnt-sugary gratinee topping. You'll know they're done when you've had to fight yourself at least 3 times from opening that oven, pulling out the sweet potatoes, and eating every last one, right then and there. Now that's what I call a successful Thanksgiving side.

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Twice-Baked Sweet Potatoesserves 4

4 sweet potatoes, scrubbed very well and left unpeeled 2 tablespoons sour cream 1 tablespoon maple syrup 2 tablespoons demerara sugar pinch flaky salt

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Line the bottom of the oven with foil.

Prick sweet potatoes in several places, and set on a rack in the middle of the oven for about 35-40 minutes, until they do not resist when pricked with a knife.

Meanwhile, combine sour cream with maple syrup, and stir until smooth. (It's ok if there are a couple lumps.)

Halve sweet potatoes lengthwise, and use a spoon to scoop out most of the flesh, leaving a 1/4-lining of flesh on each of the skins. Transfer skins to a lined baking sheet.

Spoon the sour cream mixture evenly into each of the skins, and top with a generous sprinkling of demerara sugar and the tiniest pinch of flaky salt.

Return to the oven, and bake about 20 minutes more, until skins are crisp at the edges and sour cream mixture is bubbling. Serve hot.

Mushroom Shallot Quiche

A couple weekends ago, our friends Meryl and Benjy came to town. We slept in for the first time in years, and then we hosted a late morning brunch. There's nothing like nursing a cup of strong, steaming coffee, stirring eggs and cream, and soaking in a perfect fall day.

First to the table was my new cold-weather staple, citrus salad: peeled sliced grapefruit and oranges, a little honey, some mint, presto. Rebecca made French toast casserole, dripping maple syrup and topped with fresh blueberries. To round things out, I made this quiche.

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There are lots of things to love about this recipe, originally from Dorie Greenspan. Its filling calls for just two eggs, instead of the usual six. It comes together very easily. And it calls for layering the ingredients into the quiche, pouring the eggs and cream over the mushroom mixture, then topping everything with grated cheese and sliced scallions. This method came in especially handy over the weekend, when I learned that Benj didn't like mushrooms. No sweat: I just sautéed some arugula with shallot and piled it into one section of the quiche in lieu of mushrooms. Problem solved.

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This quiche here, it's made in a tart shell (which accounts for the smaller number of eggs). That means you'll be baking it on a baking sheet - the better to pile scraps of leftover pie crust on the pan next to it, sprinkle with cinnamon sugar, and bake off. Cook's treat.

P.S.Were you looking for a Thanksgiving side? I think this would be mighty handsome on your holiday table. Hope it's a wonderful weekend!

Mushroom Shallot Quiche Adapted from Dorie Greenspan

1 1/2 cups all purpose flour 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon sugar 1/2 cup (1 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes 1 large egg 1-2 teaspoons cold water

1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1/3 cup chopped shallots (about 2 medium) 1/2 pound mushrooms, quartered (halved if small) 5 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, divided 1 tablespoon Madeira, vermouth, or white wine, optional

3/4 cup whipping cream 2 large eggs Pinch of salt Pinch of ground black pepper 2 green onions (white and pale green parts only), thinly sliced 2 tablespoons finely grated Gruyère cheese

Make Crust: Blend flour, salt, and sugar in food processor. Add butter, and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Whisk 1 egg and 1 teaspoon cold water in small bowl; add to flour mixture. Pulse processor just until moist clumps form. If necessary, add second teaspoon water and repeat. Transfer to work surface and knead gently until dough comes together, about 4 turns. Form into ball; flatten into disk. Wrap in plastic and chill 1 hour. Dough can be made 1 day ahead. Keep chilled.

Par-bake Crust: Butter 9 1/2-inch round fluted tart pan with removable bottom. Roll out dough on lightly floured surface to 12-inch round. Transfer dough to pan, pressing onto bottom and up sides of pan; trim any excess dough so edge lies flush with fluted edge of tart pan. Chill 1 hour.

Preheat oven to 400°F. Butter a large piece of foil and press, butter side down, onto crust. Fill with pie weights or dried beans. Bake 20 minutes. Remove foil and weights. Using fork, pierce bottom of crust all over (about 10 times). Bake until golden, about 10 minutes. Cool. Can be baked 6 hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature.

Make Filling: Melt butter in large nonstick skillet over medium heat. Add shallots; sauté until soft, about 2 minutes. Add mushrooms; sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add Madeira, vermouth, or white wine, if using. Increase heat to high and sauté until liquid is absorbed and mushrooms are tender, about 8 minutes. Sprinkle with 2 1/2 teaspoons thyme and cook 1 minute. Transfer mixture to plate. Cool mushrooms completely.

Assemble and Bake: Preheat oven to 350°F. Place cooled crust in pan on baking sheet. Sprinkle with remaining 2 1/2 teaspoons thyme. Drain mushrooms, if needed. Scatter mushrooms over thyme. Whisk cream, eggs, salt, and pepper in medium bowl. Pour egg mixture over mushrooms. Sprinkle with green onions and cheese.

Bake quiche until custard is set, about 25 minutes. Cool 15 minutes. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Brussels Sprouts with Caraway Seeds

Ohh, brussels sprouts. The unsung hero of the Thanksgiving table. Have your turkey, eat as many sweet potatoes as you'd like; when the maple syrup is dripping down your chin, the marshmallows bursting from your jowls, and the cranberry sauce shmeared bright red across your plate, you will have a moment - everyone has a moment - when the sweetness of it all, the sheer quantity of sugar, exhausts you. At that moment, you'll reach for the bowl of brussels sprouts, grateful that something on the table that's purely savory. Thank goodness for brussels sprouts.

here's the thing about sprouts recipes, though. Lots involve that very maple syrup that coats your yams. Or apples. Or pears (guilty as charged). Those are delicious - I'm not criticizing! - but if you take your turkey in a sweet direction (here's one recipe I'm particularly excited about that looks pretty sweet), you'll want a foil for all that sugar. So if I were making Tday dinner this year, I'd go as simple as it gets. Just some olive oil, salt and pepper - and the secret star ingredient: caraway seeds.

Let's talk caraway for a moment. It's deeply savory, and a welcome break from the sweet stuff. It's distinctive on its own: when paired with caraway, brussels sprouts need little embellishment (let's face it: you're saving your juice for the perfect turkey and a slew of pies). And they provide a little crunch to those sprouts, always welcome on a day when mashed potatoes and candied yams reign.

Also - and the importance of the following is not to be underestimated - they're easy to make. Let's be honest: brussles sprounts are the fifth child of turkey day dinner. Toss 'em in the oven. Forget about 'em. If it's a good recipe, the sprouts will turn out just fine on their own, while you're fussing over your pie and basting that bird. And by the way? Cook's secret: these sprouts are shockingly delicious right out of the fridge the morning after the big day. The caraway will have permeated the vegetable completely; sneaky leftover nibblers, I aim to please you.

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Also, incidentally: these sprouts are good all year, not just on Tday. If you're making a smaller batch, you might try making them on the stove top, as I did the second time I made them. They certainly get more blistered and brown over in a hot pan, and while they cook a bit less evenly, I found it quite exciting to watch those caraway seeds crackle and pop over the flames, crazy chick that I am.

Brussels Sprouts with Caraway Seedsadapted from a recipe in Gourmet

Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Caraway Seeds 1 1/2 pounds Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved lengthwise 1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon caraway seeds salt and pepper freshly ground nutmeg (optional - if you only have the pre-grated stuff, skip it)

Preheat oven to 450°F and place a rack in middle of the oven.

Toss Brussels sprouts with oil, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and a very light dusting of nutmeg (if using) in a bowl until well coated. Transfer to a large 4-sided sheet pan in 1 layer and roast 10 minutes. Sprinkle caraway seeds over Brussels sprouts and toss, then spread out in 1 layer and roast until Brussels sprouts are crisp-tender and well browned in spots, about 10 minutes more.

Bourbon Pecan Bars

People, it's Thanksgiving time. Turkey and mashed potatoes and yams galore, brussels sprouts and cranberry sauce, and of course, you can never have enough pie.

Except you know what? I'll beg to differ. I'm a pie lover like the best of 'em, but at a certain point, I need a break. I want a crumble, a crisp, perhaps some bars. Thanksgiving may be about tradition, but it needn't resist a change of pace, right?

Look, we can split the difference. These pecan bars are basically pecan pie, in rectangle form. They have crust, they have gooey chewy topping. Did I mention they have bourbon? You will like them. Your guests will love them. And if you want to push things over the top, dunk'em in chocolate. That'll bring the swoons. No one will miss pecan pie. And if they do? Well, there's always apple, and pumpkin, pumpkin-caramel, and apple-cranberry, and...

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With the big day under a month away, I know you're all on the hunt for the best Thanksgiving recipes. As it turns out, we're off to the in-laws, so I won't be cooking. Don't worry, though - I won't be leaving you stranded. Y'all know there's that crazy part of me that can't bear the thought of missing Thanksgiving prep - it's a weird sort of FOMO reserved for food bloggers. So here I am, with not an ounce of turkey to cook and not a pie to bake, still coming at you with recipes and menus to make your holiday memorable. First up are these bourbon pecan bars. But I've got more up my sleeve, so stay tuned.

Bourbon Pecan Barsadapted from Martha Stewart Makes 48 bars*

*Note: Martha says this recipe makes 24 bars. She has you bake them in an 8x8. But I tend to like a thinner bar, with a texture more like shortbread, so I spread the recipe out in a 9x13. If you like thicker bars, bake in an 8x8 or double the recipe.

1 1/2 cups flour 1/4 cup sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 stick (1/2 cup) butter 1 egg

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into chunks 3/4 cup packed light-brown sugar 1/4 cup light corn syrup 3 tablespoons bourbon 1/4 cup heavy cream 1/4 teaspoon salt 8 ounces (about 2 cups) coarsely chopped pecans

Make crust: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line a 9x13-inch baking pan with foil. In a food processor, pulse flour, sugar, and salt to combine. Add butter; pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add egg; pulse just until a dough forms.

Transfer dough to prepared pan; with floured fingers and/or an offset spatula, press firmly into bottom of the pan in a single, uniform layer. Freeze until firm, about 15 minutes.

Prick bottom of dough; bake until lightly golden, 22 to 25 minutes. Let cool while preparing filling.

Make the filling: In a large saucepan, bring butter, brown sugar, and corn syrup to a boil over high heat, whisking constantly, until smooth; continue boiling, without stirring, until slightly darkened, about 2 minutes. Remove pan from heat. Whisk in cream, bourbon, and salt; mix in pecans.

Assemble and bake: Spoon hot filling evenly over crust, using spoon to arrange and press in nuts so they fit snugly (create as flat a surface as possible). Bake until bubbling and amber-colored, 18 to 22 minutes. Cool completely in pan.

Using foil, lift cake from pan; peel off foil. With a sharp knife, trim edges (if desired). Cut crosswise into 8 even strips; cut each strip into 6 even rectangles to make 48 bars.