Ruby Campari Fizz

The other night, we met friends for dinner at a restaurant we last visited almost exactly one year ago: Range, in Friendship Heights. We went last February, for my birthday, with a few close friends. The restaurant was brand new and very on its game. We had a fantastic meal and even better drinks - some of the best I've had in the city.

1-DSC_0839

This time, our meal was less memorable: the servers were green and very conspicuous, awkwardly explaining and pointing (very closely!) to every element on the plate, interrupting our conversation at what seemed like all the worst moments, and insisting on giving us their spiels when we clearly already understood the concept of small plates. (Restaurants: for heaven's sake, stop with your spiels! Let us eat cake!)

But the drinks. The drinks! They were still as wonderful as I remembered from one year ago. I had an old-fashioned glass full of scotch, pumpkin shrub, and bitters with a hint of cayenne. And D, well she had the most intense drink of all: basically a big glass of whiskey, with a hint of maraschino and bitters. But mostly whiskey. The strongest, least smooth Old Fashioned you've ever had. And what was it called? The Mother-in-Law. Of course.

Before we go any further: I love my in-laws. Got that?

But that's a well-named cocktail. It makes you laugh when you drink it. It sticks with you long after it's gone. And if you liked it, you'll know exactly how to order it next time.

1-DSC_0859

1-DSC_0868

1-DSC_0873

Which is why I felt compelled to rename drink I served for brunch this weekend. The original version is called the 522 North Pinckney, which is one of those names that you only understand if you recognize that it's an address, and then go and know the person whose address it used to be.

Turns out, 522 North Pinckney is the former address of Brian Bartels, who co-owns Fedora, a Greenwich Village Bar, with Gabriel Stulman, who used to run the front of the house at the wonderful Little Owl, in the West Village, and also owns another Village spot called Joseph Leonard, where apparently Brian Bartels mixologizes. (Word? Now it is!) And that's where 522 North Pinckney comes from.

1-drink

But I've never been to Joseph Leonard. I've never been to Fedora. I've never met either of these (surely fedora-ed) fellows. And I guess I figure that unless drinks have names so common and ingrained that calling them something else misleads people (i.e. bloody mary; mimosa), a cocktail's name should evoke something you understand. Is Ruby Campari Fizz the most brilliant name ever? Ha. But you hear it, and you know what you're about to get.

Behold, the Ruby Campari Fizz:

1-DSC_0939

Ruby because your glass is about one-third red grapefruit juice. Campari because it's a prevalent flavor, and the other special liqueur in there - St. Germain - is too unwieldy a name to slap on a cocktail. Fizz is Prosecco or Cava, because you don't need to splurge on Champagne to have a happy new year.

It's a mighty strong way to ring in 2014, whether in the evening, served in flutes, or over New Year's brunch, in a coupe or the like. It's pretty and sparkly and cheery. I hope this coming year is all of those things and more, for all of us.

Happy New Year, friends. Cheers!

Ruby Campari FizzAdapted from the bar Joseph Leonard, via Bon Appetit

Makes 8 servings

3 red grapefruits 1/2 cup St. Germain (elderflower liqueur) 1/4 cup Campari 1 750-ml. bottle Prosecco or Cava (go with something inexpensive)

Set a strainer over a large bowl.

Halve grapefruits. Squeeze 5 grapefruit halves into the bowl. If you want your cocktail pulpy, transfer some of the suspended pulp from the strainer into the bowl. Press on remaining pulp and seeds to release any juice, then discard the pulp and seeds. You should wind up with approximately 2 cups of liquid.

Cut the remaining grapefruit half into two. Then slice one of the grapefruit quarters into thin slices along its cross-section. You'll use these slices to garnish the glasses.

Add St. Germain and Campari to the grapefruit juice. Transfer to a pitcher, and refrigerate until ready to serve (at least 1 hour if possible).

To serve, divide grapefruit mixture equally among 8 glasses. (If serving fewer than 8 people, pour about 1/3 cup of the mixture into each glass.) Top with Prosecco or Cava. Set one cross-section slice of grapefruit on each glass, and serve.

(Keep grapefruit mixture chilled before serving, or make up to one day in advance and chill thoroughly.)

Gingerbread Oat Waffles

Christmas may not be our holiday, but we're hunkering down for winter vacation nonetheless. I'm wrapped in a thick blanket, my feet tucked into cozy slippers, and there's bergamot tea on hand. To go with the tea, I made a second batch of teeny tiny cookies, which I'll tell you about soon. But first things first: let's talk about breakfast.

I did a quick scan of the archives this morning and discovered that we've never discussed waffles, which seems like a moderate injustice considering how many great waffles this kitchen has seen. The wait ends now; these gingerbread waffles were too good not to share. And if, like us, your table could use just a bit more gingerbread stuff (the gingerbread, ginger snaps, and gingerbread flavored tea apparently aren't enough), waffles will do the trick.

gingerbread waffles ingredients

1-DSC_0448

1-DSC_0459

I made them this morning, as a preview to the next few days of actual vacation. One of us was ambitiously dressing for work; I was still in gym clothes, plotting my day of errands and meal delivery and other very non-work things. The batter looked definitively like nothing special, but when it hit the iron and started to steam, the house filled with that wintery, spicy smell that says "December!" and also, "You don't have to work today." I was just listening to the waffles.

1-DSC_0470

As pretty as a dusting of powdered sugar would look on these guys, I implore you: do not skip the maple syrup. No waffles have ever befitted that topping more. And I might spring for a pad of salted butter, too. You've got 31 days in January to hit the gym and work them off.

syrup because yes

gingerbread waffles close-up

Happy holidays, friends. Stay warm and cuddly, full and fulfilled. I'll see you back here in a little while.

couldn't wait.

Update 12/26/13: It occurred to me during an exchange in the comments that you could definitely take this batter recipe and make it as pancakes. If you don't have a waffle iron, don't let that deter you! If you try it, let us know how it turns out.

Update #2: The second time I made this, I swapped out 1/4 cup each of the white flour and buttermilk, and added 1/2 cup of leftover sourdough starter. Result: awesome. I bet you could substitute up to 1 cup total, so double what I tried. As always: if you try it, report back.

Gingerbread Oat Waffles Adapted from Chowhound Makes 8 large (4-section) Belgian waffles, or up to 12 thinner round (4-section) waffles; serves 4-6

These waffles call for buttermilk, but they work with regular milk as well. If you use regular milk, but be sure to trade that teaspoon of baking soda for another teaspoon of baking powder.

2 cups (190 grams) all-purpose flour 1 cup (100 grams) oat flour (made by grinding oats in a food processor or spice mill until fine) 1/4 cup packed (60 grams) dark brown sugar (light brown works, too) 1 tablespoon ground ginger 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon baking soda 1 rounded teaspoon kosher salt 1/4 teaspoon ground allspice 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon 3 large eggs 3 cups well-shaken buttermilk 2 sticks (113 grams) unsalted butter, melted 1/3 cup molasses (any will do, but dark works especially well here) 2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Warm maple syrup and salted butter, for serving (optional, but not really)

In a large bowl, combine flours, sugar, ginger, baking soda and/or powder, salt, and spices. Whisk to break up any lumps.

In a separate bowl, combine eggs, buttermilk, melted butter, molasses, and vanilla. Whisk to combine.

Pour wet mixture into dry mixture and use a fork to mix together in decisive, brisk strokes, just until the dry ingredients disappear.

Heat a waffle iron according to the manufacturer's instructions. (I use the "crisp exterior, soft interior" setting.) Fill the waffle iron with about 1/3, close the lid, and cook until the steam starts to diminish or your waffle iron beeps telling you the waffle is done. Serve waffles immediately to very hungry, very grateful guests; alternatively, waffles will hold in a 250-degree oven for 10 minutes or so while you finish making them.

Serve hot, with warm maple syrup and salted butter.

What We're Reading - December 2013

That's some ginger monkey bread, or monkey gingerbread, or deliciousness. Because why not? Consider it your weekend project.

A few links for this chilly Thursday. Enjoy!

*

If you haven't yet read the truly astounding 5-part NYT series "Invisible Child," about 12-year-old Dasani and her life as a homeless girl in New York, go read it now. Then go to The Wednesday Chef, where awesome Luisa is auctioning off half (half!) of her very impressive cookbook collection to benefit the Invisible Child Fund at the Legal Aid Society in New York. The story will move you, the cookbook collection will thrill you, and if you feel moved enough -- or thrilled enough -- to bid on, say, a signed copy of Thomas Keller's Ad Hoc at Home, the Legal Aid Society will thank you.

*

Did you see Jiro Dreams of Sushi? If so, surely you remember the scene where one of Jiro's apprentices tells of the time when, after years of attempting to make the famed tamago yaki, the custardy egg sushi that ends a meal at the restaurant, Jiro finally tells him that his custard is acceptable, and he cries of happiness. Well, now that very same apprentice has a restaurant in New York, and....you should read all about it.

*

Molly has taken my favorite cabbage recipe, Marcella Hazan's Smothered Cabbage (from which I made risotto, back in 2010) and transformed it into soup. Soup that was made for the chilly nights we've been having here in DC. Added to my must-make list.

*

White House holiday cookies, because yes. They even made Bo cookies! If I'm lucky, I'll see some of these goodies when I go see the WH all dressed up for Christmas later today.

*

You may remember that I discovered a new favorite sourdough starter and bread method, from Tartine Bakery, earlier this year. Tartine's method is involved, but once you get the hang of it it's both straightforward and sufficiently flexible to find its place in your daily (or in my case weekly) routine. I love that Food52 is doing a whole series on bread making and baking with Chad Robertson, the proprietor of Tartine. Check it out.

*

Lastly, Deb just posted my all-time favorite torte on her blog. You guys, you've gotta make Linzer. It's the best.

Happy Thursday!

Maple Cardamom Marshmallows

Christmas may not be a holiday I officially celebrate, but folks, that won't stop me from playing Nat King Cole's holiday album, wearing my best snowflake sweaters (I have two), and baking a counter full of cookies. I'll leave the Nativity bit to others, but the kindness, the cheer, the mistletoe, the sweets - that stuff is open to anyone.

Which is why I'm participating in a Secret Santa Secret Cookie Swap, because who doesn't want to gift and be gifted on the holidays? The mystery recipient of my goodies better get some goat cheese ready, because I'm sending over a jar of my tomato jam, some homemade tangerine marmalade, cinnamon-pear maple syrup from Napa, and a little box of can-I-just-say-they're-adorable sablé cookies filled with homemade dulce de leche.

how it's done

But that's not all: I firmly believe that we all need to expand our holiday baking horizons beyond cookies. Why insist on mailing containers of very breakable cookies or often-teeth-cracking biscotti when you can pack a tin full of dense, chocolatey, travel-friendly fudge to your loved ones? Or better yet, surprise them - and save on shipping costs - by sending the lightest, fluffiest, still-sturdy marshmallows ever made.

Because I am moderately obsessed with anything maple-flavored (excluding extract and Aunt Jemima - the real deal, people), I swapped corn syrup and some of the sugar for a yes-I'm-serious whole cup of maple. Worth it, and you know what? Next time, I might even add half a cup more. I also added freshly ground cardamom, one of my favorite spices. The fresh ground bit makes a difference; if you have whole nutmeg but no whole cardamom, use nutmeg instead. In a pinch, I'm sure pre-ground cardamom would taste good, too.

cut, dust, consume

1-DSC_0076

1-DSC_0084

More Marshmallow Ideas: Don't stop at maple and cardamom. Try adding some gingerbread spice and a tablespoon or so of molasses for gingerbread-flavored marshmallows; swap water for port or reduced cider for fruitier treats; or, of course, sprinkle some cocoa and grated chocolate during the final mixing for chocolate confections. Just remember that it's called the season of giving, not the season of stuffing your face with marshmallows. Save at least a few for your friends and family.

maple-cardamom marshmallows

Maple-Cardamom MarshmallowsInspired by Gourmet via Smitten Kitchen

A note about cardamom: you need to remove the brown seeds from their green pods before grinding. Some specialty stores sell the cardamom seeds without their pods, making this job a bit easier. If you have fresh cardamom in the pods, no biggie - just turn on some music and get rolling.

Makes about 96 marshmallows

About 1 cup powdered sugar 3 1/2 envelopes (2 tablespoons plus 2 1/2 teaspoons) unflavored gelatin 1 cup cold water, divided 1 1/2 cups granulated sugar 1 cup maple syrup 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground cardamom (or substitute freshly ground nutmeg) 2 large egg whites 1 tablespoon vanilla

Butter the bottom and sides of a 13x9-inch baking pan (metal and pyrex both work) and dust bottom and sides with powdered sugar.

In bowl of a stand mixer or a large bowl, sprinkle gelatin over 1/2 cup cold water, and let stand to soften.

In a 3-quart heavy saucepan, cook sugar, maple syrup, the second 1/2 cup of cold water, salt, and cardamom over low heat, stirring with a wooden spoon, until sugar is dissolved. Increase heat to medium and boil mixture, without stirring, until a candy or digital thermometer registers 240°F, 8-10 minutes. Remove pan from the heat and pour sugar mixture over gelatin mixture, stirring until gelatin is fully dissolved.

With stand mixer or a hand-held electric mixer, beat mixture on high speed until white, thick, and nearly tripled in volume, about six minutes if using stand mixer or about 10 minutes if using hand-held mixer. If it doesn't whip up as quickly, be patient - it'll get there eventually.

In separate medium bowl with a clean whisk/beater, beat egg whites until they just barely hold stiff peaks. Add vanilla. Beat egg white mixture into sugar mixture until just combined. Pour mixture into baking pan and use a stiff spatula to scrape as much of it as you can into the prepared pan. Sift 1/4 cup powdered sugar evenly over top. Chill marshmallow, uncovered, until firm, at least three hours, and up to one day. Alternatively, set them on the counter overnight and they'll firm up just fine.

Run a thin knife around edges of pan and invert pan onto a large cutting board dusted with a bit more powdered sugar. Lifting up one corner of inverted pan, use your fingers to loosen the marshmallow mass and ease onto the cutting board. Use a large knife to trim the edges of the marshmallow, and cut into roughly one-inch cubes. (An oiled pizza cutter works well here, too.) Sift most of the remaining powdered sugar back into your now-empty baking pan, and transfer the marshmallows back into the pan. Dust with the last bit of powdered sugar, then roll the marshmallows through it, on all six sides, before shaking off the excess and packing them away.

Do ahead: Marshmallows keep in an airtight container at cool room temperature for at least one week, possibly more - if you can keep them around that long.