Laura Goodenough's Apple Coffee Cake

There comes a time each winter when I open the fruit drawer in search of a snack, and find an endless supply of just apples. First I'm surprised. I get that dead of winter on the east coast means berries and stone fruit are, at best, in the freezer, but where are my shipped-from-California meyer lemons? Aren't there any pears? Then, sad: apples are boring. If I have to eat another bowl of apple butter, I may move to Florida.

When the whining subsides, I drag my derriere out of apple fatigue and get cooking. Sometimes I make this apple crisp, which is totally worth getting out of bed for. Other times, it's pancakes I'm after. Last weekend, what called my name was this tall, crusty apple cake.

This recipe hails from the New York Times Cookbook, yet another success from my favorite cookbook of 2010. While I've no idea who Laura Goodenough is, her apple coffee cake really hit the spot. Unlike my regular apple cake recipe, which is baked in a 9x13 and is thus pretty stout, this here is a lofty cake with quite a presence. Baked in a bundt, it slices into nice tall wedges, pretty when served. The cinnamon is prominent in this cake, which I love; mixed with the apples, it forms a sort of syrup that keeps the cake moist and perfumed. There's something comforting about apple cakes where the apples and the batter are folded together; not so with this version, where the apples and batter are layered into the pan separately. While the layers blend somewhat during cooking, the layers of cinnamon-cloaked apples tucked into a slice of this cake are a most pleasant surprise. I'm still eager for spring to come, but in the meantime, this apple cake is more than goodenough.

Laura Goodenough's Apple Coffee Cake adapted from the New York Times Essential Cookbook

note: as I said above, this is a very tall cake. You'll need a pretty big mixing bowl to make it. Don't be shy -- the results are worthwhile. Also, cinnamon features prominently here. If you want a less aggressive cinnamon flavor, cut 5 teaspoons to 3.

3-5 apples, cored and sliced 1/8-inch thick (about 4 cups) 2 cups plus 5 tablespoons sugar 5 teaspoons cinnamon 3 cups all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon baking powder 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup vegetable oil 4 large eggs, slightly beaten 1/4 cup orange juice 1 tablespoon vanilla extract whipped cream for serving, optional

Heat oven to 375. Grease a 10-inch bundt or other tube pan. In a medium bowl, combine apples, 5 tablespoons sugar, and cinnamon. Set aside.

In a large bowl, combine flour, 2 cups sugar, baking powder, and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the center and pour in the oil, eggs, orange juice, and vanilla. Use a large fork or wooden spoon to mix until combined.

Pour 1/3 of cake batter into pan. Layer 1/2 the apples, drained of excess moisture, on top. Add another third of the batter, followed by the rest of the apples, and finally the remaining batter.

Bake about 60 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into the thickest part of the cake comes out clean. Cover with foil if it begins to overbrown.

Allow cake to cool to lukewarm in the pan, then turn onto a serving plate. Serve warm, with unsweetened whipped cream.

A Resolution About Resolutions. And Some Cake.

It's a new year: resolutions abound. Taking my friends at their word, 2011 will see the end of lateness, the renewal of grammar anal-retentiveness, and loads of meat. I won't complain about any of that. But I admit, I'm overwhelmed. So many promises! So much good intention! So much...pressure! That's no way to start the new year.

When I posted about my kitchen resolutions last September, I was fired up. I figured that publicizing my goals would make them real, make me most likely to achieve them. Now, I take a peek at those resolutions hovering in the corner of this space, and struggle not to cower in their presence.

That duck prosciutto, for instance. No time like now for duck prosciutto; my friend Cathy has teemed up with Kim Forster, aka the Yummy Mummy, to launch Charcutepalooza, a celebration of home-curing. First up? Duck prosciutto, of course. And were it not for the fact that I'm working minimum 60-hour weeks, lacking any curing space (no yard, no garage, no wine fridge), and trying to keep up this blog in the meantime, I'd totally take the plunge.

Alas, duck prosciutto will have to wait. It's still a resolution, and I do hope to do it, but today just isn't that day. Perhaps this will be the year in which I finally learn to say no.

That's the thing about resolutions. When they're motivators, they're great. When they're threats, I lose interest.

Not to fear, though -- I haven't abandoned my duck ambitions entirely. I've got a full bird thawing in the fridge right now, and I rendered two pounds of skin this past week. Stay tuned for instructions on how to render that fat, how to use the cracklings, and -- finally -- how to confit the legs. One resolution: check.

For now, amid the crazy talk of more time at the gym and less food in the stomach and other bloated promises, I'm dreaming of simpler things. Like cake.

Cake! This here loaf is a total winner. For shock points, I'll tell you that it's from Food52. (Seriously, ya'll should start taking bets on how many recipes I'll make that aren't from that site.) It's a browned butter and butternut loaf whose modest appearance belies its complexity. The brown-butter icing, which I skipped for simplicity's sake, would elevate this cake from plain jane to star of the show, and I think it makes the perfect host gift. I've got one on the counter for tomorrow, one in the freezer for another time, and I've already resolved to stick this recipe in my regular rotation. That's a promise I'm likely to keep.

Brown Butter and Butternut Squash Loaf adapted slightly from fiveandspice via Food52

2 cups pureed roasted butternut squash 1 cup unsalted butter 3 large eggs 1 1/2 cup sugar 1/2 cup packed light brown sugar 3 cups all purpose flour 2 teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons baking soda 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg (preferrably freshly ground) 1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

Glaze (optional): 5 tablespoons salted butter 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 1/2 cup or so of confectioner's sugar

Preheat your oven to 350 degrees, and grease two (9 inch) loaf pans.

In a medium saucepan, heat the butter over medium-high heat. It will melt first, and then start to foam. Turn the heat down to medium. As the butter browns, the dairy solids will start to stick to the bottom of the pan. Scrape these browned bits back into the butter from time to time. After about 7 minutes, the butter will have turned a nice brown color will smell rich and nutty; remove it from the heat and allow to cool for about 10 minutes.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat eggs and sugars on high speed for several minutes, until the color has lightened. Scrape in the browned butter and beat for another couple of minutes, starting on low and raising speed to medium-high, until the mixture is smooth.

Add the pureed squash to the wet ingredients and beat until smooth and uniformly mixed in.

In a small bowl, combine the flour, salt, baking powder, baking soda, nutmeg, and cloves. Add dry ingredients to wet ingredients, and mix on low until fully incorporated. Do not overmix.

Divide the batter evenly into the 2 prepared loaf pans and bake for about 50 minutes, until a tester comes out clean. Take the bread out of the loaf pans and allow to cool completely.

To make the optional glaze, brown and cool butter as described above (it will take shorter since there is less). Add cooled butter to a mixing bowl. Whisk vanilla into butter.

Sift the confectioner's sugar to remove lumps and whisk it into the butter mixture until the glaze is spreadable.

Spread the icing onto the loaves, and allow to set for about 30 minutes before slicing.

A Menu for the Jewish New Year

For serious, how has a year passed already? Eek.

The Jewish New Year is upon us. What's a girl to make for a holiday this big and momentous? Answer: a whole lotta food. But at the request of quite a few lovely readers, this year, I'm getting more specific. I'll be posting my Rosh Hashana menu from soup to cake, and -- per your requests -- I'll share my recipe for apple cake. In my humble opinion, it's a perfect recipe, with cinnamon-laced apples and the all-important crust. Let's get to it, shall we?

First things first: my work schedule is such that I'll have one day - one half day, if we're being precise -- to cook. With this in mind, my wonderful stepmother-in-law-to-be, Terri, is bringing a bunch of the staples with her from Detroit. Among the things coming on the plane are soup, 3 chickens, and 2 briskets. Clearly the lady is used to cooking for a crowd, and thank god for that.

Have no fear: just because she's doing brisket doesn't mean I'm not armed with a recipe for ya. It's hard to believe I haven't shared this brisket recipe yet, because it is my absolute favorite, and I rarely make brisket any other way.

But I'm getting ahead of myself. Here's the whole menu:

Day 1:

Homemade challah Various homemade pickles Matza ball soup Salad of arugula and romaine, peaches, raw sweet corn, chives, and mustard vinaigrette Terri's chicken and brisket Moroccan eggplant (recipe to come shortly) Summer squash couscous with sultanas, pistachios, and mint

Day 2: Caponata Tomato Soup Fattoush Chicken and brisket Beets with fennel, orange, and walnuts Braised Sweet and Sour Cabbage

And, for both nights, I'll be making my new favorite Jewish apple cake. It's a not-too-sweet, plenty sturdy batter, laced with thin slices of cinnamon-and-sugar-coated apples. I used Cortland, which become soft but not at all mushy. Granny Smith would be great as well. Pretty much anything but Macintosh and Delicious will work.

Some folks like their apple cake with big chunks of fruit; I love that this cake has the apples in thin slices, woven through the body of the cake. When you're pouring the batter into the pan, it'll feel as though you took a bunch of apple slices, dunked them in batter, and baked them off. I love that. This cake is loaded with apples, but have no fear -- the batter expands in the oven, and the blob of batter-coated apples becomes a phenomenal cake.

We're rounding out 5770 here at NDP, and we're also sneakin' up on the blog's 3-year anniversary. It's hard to believe; I'm not sure what else to say. Blogging in this space, hearing your comments, reading your emails, and sharing my favorite recipes with all of you gives me no small measure of joy. I feel lucky to be a place you visit, and I hope this year brings all of us many, many blessings. Have a happy, healthy new year!

My Favorite Apple Cake

4 firm, tart apples; I like Cortlandt 3 tablespoons cinnamon 1 3/4 cups plus 4 tablespoons sugar, divided juice of half a lemon 3 cups flour 1 tablespoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon salt 4 eggs 1 tablespoon vanilla 1 cup vegetable or corn oil 1/2 cup apple sauce

Preheat oven to 350º. Butter and flour either a bundt pan (for pretty slices but no real crust), or a 9-inch springform or round pan (more boringtown shape, great crust).

Core apples, slice into 1/2 inch slices, and toss in a medium bowl with cinnamon, 4 tablespoons sugar, and juice of half a lemon. Set aside.

In a small bowl, combine flour, salt, and baking powder. Set aside.

In a large bowl, combine eggs, remaining sugar, and oil. Beat with whisk or whip with electric mixer until frothy and somewhat satiny, about 60 seconds with a whisk or 30 with an electric mixer. Add vanilla and whisk to combine.

Add 1/3 of dry ingredients to egg mixture. Whisk to combine. Add half apple sauce, and whisk again. Repeat with second third of dry ingredients, remaining apple sauce, and finally, the last third of the dry ingredients. When batter is smooth and only a few lumps remain, add apples, with all accumulated liquid, to batter. Fold in to combine.

Pour batter into prepared pan, and bake approximately 60 minutes, maybe 70, until cake is set in the middle and crust is golden. Set pan on rack and allow cake to cool 15 minutes. Then gingerly run knife around perimeter of cake, set plate overtop, and flip pan, inverting cake onto plate. Allow to cool completely. Dust with powdered sugar before serving.

My Best Brisket Recipe

5 pounds first cut brisket, trimmed of any excess fat 3 tablespoons olive oil 2 leeks, cleaned and chopped 2 yellow onions, coarsely chopped 2 carrots, quartered lengthwise and chopped 2 stalks celery, chopped 5 cloves garlic, smashed, skins removed 2 bay leaves 2 tablespoons tomato paste 3-4 sprigs parsley, roughly chopped 2 sprigs thyme 3 tablespoons pomegranate molasses 1 cup pomegranate juice 1 bottle dry red wine minus 1 cup (to drink, of course 1/2 cup beef stock, optional

Preheat oven to 325º.

Pat brisket dry and salt liberally on both sides, If using kosher meat, do not salt.

Put your largest, deepest saute pan (preferably oven safe; a dutch oven is a great one to use) over medium high heat.

Using sturdy kitchen tongs, transfer brisket to pan and sear, undisturbed, for 4-5 minutes, until underside develops brown crust. Turn brisket and cook 3-4 minutes on second side, until similarly seared. If pan is oven-safe, transfer brisket to a plate. If not, transfer brisket to oven-safe pan and set aside.

Pour off any accumulated fat in pan, reserving the fond (the delicious brown bits stuck to the bottom of the pan, which have all the brisket flavor in them). Reduce heat to medium, add olive oil, and swirl to coat. Ad onions, leeks, carrots, and celery, and saute until onions are translucent, 4-5 minutes, stirring regularly. Add garlic and saute 3 minutes more. Add bay leaves and herbs.

Add tomato paste, and use the back of a wooden spoon to break it up and incorporate it into the vegetables. Saute 3 minutes more, and then transfer to plate or pan holding brisket.

Raise heat back to medium-high. Add a splash of wine to the pan, and use a wooden spoon to scrape up the fond from the bottom of the pan. Add the rest of the wine, pomegranate juice, and beef stock, if using. Cook on medium-high heat until reduced by half. Add pomegranate molasses and cook 1 minute more.

Transfer brisket, vegetables, and braising liquid to oven-safe pan (if using a dutch oven, cooking liquid already will be in it, so carefully transfer brisket and seasoning to pan.)

Braise, covered, at 325 for 3 hours, until soft and tender. At the 1 hour mark, taste sauce and correct for salt and seasoning. When 3 hours have passed, remove pan from oven and allow brisket to rest at room temperature approximately 20-30 minutes. To serve, slice against the grain as thickly as desired. Top each slice with a spoonful of sauce.