Thick, Chewy Oatmeal Raisin Cookies

We've had a couple exciting events in the past couple of weeks, and by events, I mean excuses to bake. Chocolate shortbread cookies. Buckwheat coffee thins. Black sesame biscuits. For days, I couldn't stop. I had bags of flour open on the counter - and not just all-purpose or cake: whole wheat pastry, barley, even amaranth. I was on the warpath through Pure Dessert and Good to the Grain, and I couldn't be stopped.

Until last week, that is. I took a couple of almond shortbread cookies out of the jar for D and me after dinner. She took one look at the crumbly, sandy cookie in my hand, then looked at me, and then slowly shook her head. "I can't eat those anymore," she said. "Can't you just make normal, ordinary cookies?"

And so, the gauntlet was laid down.

"Normal ordinary" generally means chocolate chip (these ones in particular). But this time, I pulled out my jar of oats. And the little jar next to it, which contains - of course - raisins. I was determined to show D and the world that chocolate chip is not automatically the standard bearer in the ordinary cookie category, and judging by the reaction these cookies  got, I'd say I was successful.

These aren't delicate or lacy. They're chewy and thick. Unlike all those sad cookies that start out as perfectly-rolled balls but slowly deflate into flops when cooked, these cookies stay nice and plump, thanks to a spin in the refrigerator, which firms up the dough. Once they've cooled, you'll find there's plenty of cookie to sink your teeth into. I also managed to exercise unusual self-control when making these, so -- despite my inclination -- they have no cinnamon; just a dusting of nutmeg and cloves, which gives them a more subtle, delicate spice and really lets the oat flavor come through. But don't take my word for it: D took one bite and nodded vigorously. "Now that's what I'm talking about."

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Tall, Chewy Oatmeal Cookiesadapted from Cook's Illustrated

A couple notes, because I can't resist. First, if you're not a raisin fan, substitute 1 cup of bittersweet chocolate chips. If you do this, I'd suggest sprinkling the tops of the cookies with a bit of flaky salt, which will offset the sweetness. Also, don't skip the refrigeration part; it's the key to getting cookies that stand tall.

1 cup (1/2 lb.) unsalted butter, softened but still firm 1 cup light brown sugar 1 cup granulated sugar 2 eggs 1 1/2 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1/2 teaspoon table salt 1/2 teaspoon baking powder 1/4 teaspoon fresh ground nutmeg 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves 3 cups rolled oats 1 1/2 cups raisins

Preheat oven to 350 degrees and evenly space two racks in the oven. Line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper or silpat. In the bowl of a stand mixer or a large mixing bowl, beat butter until creamy. Add sugars, and beat until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Beat in eggs one at a time.

In a medium bowl, mix flour, salt, baking powder, nutmeg, and cloves together, then stir them into butter-sugar mixture with wooden spoon or mix them in on low just until the flour disappears. Stir in oats and raisins.

Form dough into about 40 1.5-inch balls, placing each dough round onto one of two parchment paper–covered, large cookie sheets. Refrigerate sheets for about 45 minutes, until dough has firmed up. Bake until cookie edges turn golden brown, about 15 minutes. (Halfway during baking, rotate cookie sheets from front to back and switch them from top to bottom.) Slide cookies on parchment onto cooling rack. Let cool at least 30 minutes before serving.

Once cookies are rolled into balls, you can also freeze them uncooked for later. If freezing them, put the cookie sheets into the freezer until dough has frozen, about 1 hour. Put frozen balls of dough into a sealable plastic bag. Cookies will keep this way for a couple weeks.

Hazelnut Molasses Crisps

Some cookies are made to be shipped. They're crunchy, sturdy, and can weather any postal worker's worst mood.

If you can imagine those cookies' polar opposite, you'd have in your mind the cookies I'm sharing with you today. They are not for shipping, unless your friends will be particularly excited to receive a tin full of hazelnut-flecked, molasses-flavored cookie crumbs. (Incidentally, the crumbs, which you inevitably will have after making and packing a batch of these cookies, are just superb sprinkled on vanilla ice cream. But I digress.) They are, however, the perfect finale to a meal, a day, a 30-minute TV show. They're a cookie to bring your next door neighbor or to set out at a housewarming/open house/holiday party. where people don't have to fuss with them all that much. Yes, they're delicate beings, these cookies. But boy are they good.

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I found them in a book by the great Alice Medrich that I checked out of the library some weeks ago. I happened upon the recipe, thought of the bag of hazelnuts in my freezer (I keep all my nuts in the freezer - they stay fresh much longer that way), and copied the recipe. I knew I wouldn't have the time to make them before the book was due back at the library; I also knew that once I made them, I'd want the recipe on hand to make them again and again. On both counts, I was right.

It's funny that these cookies are so light and crispy and delicate; when sliced raw, they look like pieces of high-quality salami, which is every bit as different in texture from these cookies as it sounds. The salami resemblance disappears when they bake, though. What emerges from the oven is a tray full of toasty, nutty, crispy cookies that, quite frankly, are hard to stop eating. While subtlety may seem to have no place within the holiday cookie genre (red- and green-colored cookies, with blue icing and plenty of sprinkles, please), tasting these cookies, you will feel compelled to fight on behalf of those less glamorous cookies, because as it turns out, they're often just as tasty. Usually more so.

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Hazelnut Molasses Crispsadapted from Alice Medrich's Chewy Gooey Crispy Crunchy

Alice says this makes about 100; I lost count after 65, but as always, I trust her.

1 2/3 cups (7.5 oz.) all-purpose flour 1/2 cup (2.5 oz.) raw hazelnuts, skin left on 1 teaspoon baking soda 2 sticks (1/2 lb.) butter, slightly softened 3/4 cup (5.25 oz.) sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon vanilla 1/2 teaspoon orange zest 1/4 cup unsulfured molasses

Put flour, hazelnuts, and baking soda into a food processor and process until nuts are fine. Set aside.

In the bowl of a stand mixer or a nonreactive mixing bowl, combine butter, sugar, salt, vanilla, and zest. Beat until thoroughly mixed and fluffy. On low speed, add half the flour mixture, followed by all the molasses. Mix just until combined, then add the remaining flour and mix just until fully incorporated.

Rip a sheet of wax or parchment paper or plastic wrap about 18 inches long. Spoon the dough onto the paper/wrap in a strip along the middle, then wrap paper around dough and use paper to help you shape the dough into a cylinder about 14 inches long and just under 2 inches wide. Wrap tightly, tuck ends of paper under, and refrigerate at least 2 hours or overnight.

Line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Position two racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven. Cut slices of dough off the cylinder about 1/8-inch thick. Place the slices about 1 1/2 inches apart on the prepared cookie sheets. Bake 10-12 minutes, until dark golden brown with even darker edges, rotating pans from top to bottom and front to back halfway through the baking time. When cookies are done, transfer cookies on parchment paper straight to cooling rack. Once cookies are completely cool, store in stacks in an airtight container. Cookies can keep this way for just over 1 week.

Bourbon Pecan Bars

People, it's Thanksgiving time. Turkey and mashed potatoes and yams galore, brussels sprouts and cranberry sauce, and of course, you can never have enough pie.

Except you know what? I'll beg to differ. I'm a pie lover like the best of 'em, but at a certain point, I need a break. I want a crumble, a crisp, perhaps some bars. Thanksgiving may be about tradition, but it needn't resist a change of pace, right?

Look, we can split the difference. These pecan bars are basically pecan pie, in rectangle form. They have crust, they have gooey chewy topping. Did I mention they have bourbon? You will like them. Your guests will love them. And if you want to push things over the top, dunk'em in chocolate. That'll bring the swoons. No one will miss pecan pie. And if they do? Well, there's always apple, and pumpkin, pumpkin-caramel, and apple-cranberry, and...

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With the big day under a month away, I know you're all on the hunt for the best Thanksgiving recipes. As it turns out, we're off to the in-laws, so I won't be cooking. Don't worry, though - I won't be leaving you stranded. Y'all know there's that crazy part of me that can't bear the thought of missing Thanksgiving prep - it's a weird sort of FOMO reserved for food bloggers. So here I am, with not an ounce of turkey to cook and not a pie to bake, still coming at you with recipes and menus to make your holiday memorable. First up are these bourbon pecan bars. But I've got more up my sleeve, so stay tuned.

Bourbon Pecan Barsadapted from Martha Stewart Makes 48 bars*

*Note: Martha says this recipe makes 24 bars. She has you bake them in an 8x8. But I tend to like a thinner bar, with a texture more like shortbread, so I spread the recipe out in a 9x13. If you like thicker bars, bake in an 8x8 or double the recipe.

1 1/2 cups flour 1/4 cup sugar 1/4 teaspoon salt 1 stick (1/2 cup) butter 1 egg

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into chunks 3/4 cup packed light-brown sugar 1/4 cup light corn syrup 3 tablespoons bourbon 1/4 cup heavy cream 1/4 teaspoon salt 8 ounces (about 2 cups) coarsely chopped pecans

Make crust: Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Line a 9x13-inch baking pan with foil. In a food processor, pulse flour, sugar, and salt to combine. Add butter; pulse until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add egg; pulse just until a dough forms.

Transfer dough to prepared pan; with floured fingers and/or an offset spatula, press firmly into bottom of the pan in a single, uniform layer. Freeze until firm, about 15 minutes.

Prick bottom of dough; bake until lightly golden, 22 to 25 minutes. Let cool while preparing filling.

Make the filling: In a large saucepan, bring butter, brown sugar, and corn syrup to a boil over high heat, whisking constantly, until smooth; continue boiling, without stirring, until slightly darkened, about 2 minutes. Remove pan from heat. Whisk in cream, bourbon, and salt; mix in pecans.

Assemble and bake: Spoon hot filling evenly over crust, using spoon to arrange and press in nuts so they fit snugly (create as flat a surface as possible). Bake until bubbling and amber-colored, 18 to 22 minutes. Cool completely in pan.

Using foil, lift cake from pan; peel off foil. With a sharp knife, trim edges (if desired). Cut crosswise into 8 even strips; cut each strip into 6 even rectangles to make 48 bars.

Ginger Brownies

Brownie perfection is in the eye of the beholder. Some like a moist, chewy brownie. (Others inexplicably prefer the cakey kind, but I'm not judging.) Katherine Hepburn liked brownies so chocolatey, they were black - but I've also met strange folks who don't want to be hit over the head by the chocolate. (Again, not judging. Kinda.)

The brownie debate extends quite far: even Duncan Hines lists two options on their packaged brownie mix - one egg for chewy brownies, two for cake-like brownies.

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Me, I like a brownie that's moist and chewy - but it's important to me that they hold to hold their shape when sliced. Mushy brownies have a time and a place - midnight or later, straight out of the pan, eaten alone or with someone I like a whole lot. For the more civilized occasions, give me a brownie that slices up nicely.

In the past, I've looked to Alice Medrich and Dorie Greenspan, who have developed recipes for truly bittersweet, moist brownies. Neither of my standby favorites have any additions, which can disrupt the otherwise smooth texture of good brownies.

But I'm not a total purist. I've always been a fan of peppermint brownies, and just as curious about the supporting role other flavors might be able to play. So yesterday, I pulled a stack of cookbooks off the shelf and began looking for inspiration: I wanted to make ginger brownies.

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That expedition ended with a thud. I couldn't find anything I was excited to make. So I turned to the interwebs, and quickly found myself a Martha recipe that looked mighty promising. Spiced with ground ginger, nutmeg, and cloves, they suggested prominent fall flavor but didn't look too overpowering.

And here I am, blogging abut the recipe, so yes, friends. They were every bit as good as I'd hoped. The texture of these brownies comes pretty close to perfect, for me at least. Chewy and moist, but firm enough to stand up to a knife. I topped them with some of the lovely ginger salt I received from Marx Foods a while back for some sort of contest (I forget the context, but I'm pretty sure it was open to everyone, and they're certainly not paying me to discuss it here). I was enamored enough of the topping that I'm encouraging you to do something similar below. It's simple, really: combine ground ginger with coarse salt. Alternatively, snag the ginger salt from Marx Foods. It's - er - worth its salt.

Ginger Browniesadapted from Martha Stewart makes 9 large brownies or 12 smaller brownies (1 8x8 pan)

Note: The ginger salt is out of stock, but equally wonderful is the espresso salt. Try it! If you don't have fancy flavored salt, just take 1/2 teaspoon of flaky salt in a bowl, add a pinch of ground ginger, and stir until combined. Sprinkle sparingly over the brownies. If you're not keen on that fuss, just use regular flaky salt.

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus more for baking dish 3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped 1 cup sugar 2/3 cup all-purpose flour 1/4 cup unsweetened Dutch-process cocoa powder 2 large eggs 1 teaspoon grated peeled fresh ginger 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1/2 teaspoon ground ginger 1/4 teaspoon coarse salt, plus 1/2 teaspoon for sprinkling 1/8 teaspoon ground cloves

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Butter an 8-inch square baking dish. Line bottom with parchment paper, allowing 2 inches to hang over 2 sides. Butter parchment.

Melt butter and chocolate together in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, stirring until smooth. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

In a large bowl, combine dry ingredients and spices. Stir to combine fully. Add eggs, vanilla, and cooled chocolate mixture, and stir to fully combine.

Pour batter into prepared dish and smooth top with a rubber spatula. Sprinkle sparingly with either ginger salt or regular flaky salt. Bake until a cake tester inserted into center comes out with moist crumbs, 30 to 35 minutes. Let cool in pan on a wire rack 15 minutes. Lift out, and let cool completely on rack. Cut into 8 squares or 12 rectangles. Brownies can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature up to 4 days.