Spaghetti with Ramps

Hello out there! Sorry to have abandoned ship for the past week -- due to Passover, I've been subsisting on a strange diet of matzah, farmers cheese, avocado, and salad. Not exactly the stuff worthy of a blog post. Most people would rather clean their bathroom than volunteer to host a dinner party the day after Passover ends, but moi? I've been itching to get back in the kitchen something serious. So yesterday, I did just that. I cooked up dinner for some of D's law school friends and relished every minute of my time with my dishes, my kitchenaid, and best of all -- FLOUR.

As if eating carbs again weren't cause enough for celebration, have you looked outside? It's Spring! The cherry blossoms here in DC are in full bloom (many are already past their bloom, which means the grass is blanketed in pink) and the weather this weekend has been just gorgeous -- a perfect 76 and sunny today, in fact. I couldn't be happier about the weather; so you better believe last night's menu took full advantage not only of the end of the holiday, but of the start of my favorite season.

I've got many recipes to share with you -- my mind's been bursting with new ideas that I haven't been able to test out in the past couple weeks! -- but first and foremost, an ode to one of my favorite spring vegetables: ramps. I've waxed poetic about ramps before, and this surely won't be the last time: ramps are a variety of green onion that grow wild during the first couple weeks of Spring. Their season is literally only a couple weeks long so you gotta grab 'em while you can. I spent way too much on ramps at last week's farmers' market, but Friday night was the big payoff: I served them in a simple preparation a la Mario Batali, tossed with linguini (he actually recommends spaghetti), olive oil-toasted breadcrumbs, salt, and crushed red pepper. The dish may sound dead simple, and it is -- I have to restrain myself from blanketing the whole thing in parmigiano reggiano -- but it's also absolutely delicious.

I promise more recipes this week, including a great simple way to make salmon (but alas, no pictures -- it was eaten up before I had the chance!) and a perfectly tangy lemon tart (with some nice pictures, too). For now, hit up your weekend farmers' market and get yourself some ramps. Happy spring, everyone!

Spaghetti with Ramps adapted from Mario Batali

Coarse salt 1 pound dry spaghetti or linguine 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, 2 more tablespoons if toasting breadcrumbs (see below), plus more for drizzling 8 ounces fresh ramps, white root ends and green leafy tops separated 1 to 2 tablespoons crushed red pepper flakes 2 tablespoons breadcrumbs (Batali says to use dry, but I used fresh, and toasted them in a pan in 2 tablespoons of olive oil until golden brown, then transfered to a bowl)

Bring 6 quarts of water to a boil in a large saucepan over high heat. Add 2 tablespoons salt and return to a boil. Add spaghetti and cook according to package direction, until tender but still al dente. If using fresh bread crumbs, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a 12-to-14-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add breadcrumbs and cook, tossing regularly, until golden brown. Transfer to a bowl and wipe out pan with paper towel. Add 3 tablespoons olive oil and allow to heat up. Add root ends from ramps to pan and cook, stirring, until tender. Season with red pepper flakes and salt. Add leafy greens from ramps and cook, stirring, until wilted. Drain pasta and add to skillet. Toss gently to coat pasta with sauce. Divide pasta evenly between 4 warmed plates. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Serve immediately.

Strawberry Avocado Salad

Not exactly a recipe, but this was a part of my Sunday morning breakfast last week and I couldn't resist sharing it. It's a sign of the warmer days that are (I hope!) just around the corner, and it's a healthy and filling alternative to my usual morning grind. It's also dead simple to make. So what are you waiting for?

Strawberry Avocado Salad

1 lb. pea shoots, arugula, or other nice-looking salad greens 1 pint strawberries, washed and sliced 2 avocados, sliced champagne vinaigrette or other mild vinaigrette

Transfer the greens to a big salad bowl, and salt and pepper them. Distribute strawberry and avocado slices overtop. Drizzle the vinaigrette around the sides of the salad bowl, (in other words, dress the bowl, not the salad) and toss the salad around to coat very thinly with the dressing.

Serve with some crusty baguette, some good cheese, or even a bowl of good organic yogurt.

Meringues (Finally)

For all those anticipating Passover, these meringues are the perfect Passover dessert. They require no flour or leavening, but actually taste good. I simply can't go the week without them.

I was looking through my archived photos today and discovered something utterly shocking: I've had a website for...how long now? a year and a half?...and somehow escaped until today without posting a recipe for one of my most reliable, fool-proof, standby, can't-live-without desserts. I make them all all all the time, especially when I have leftover egg whites. On top of being nearly effortless to make, they achieve one of the rare feat of being both non-dairy and delicious. Like I said, rare.

Meringues, my friends, meringues. They are a fundamental part of my dessert repertoire, and the basis for many other desserts (including, among others, this crazy buche de noel, and the ultimate meringue-based dessert, Macarons.

Before I get knee-deep in apologizing, I'll be out with the recipe. As I said, they're great on their own, or with any number of additions, including extracts (vanilla, almond if that's your thing), spices (cinnamon, cocoa, etc) and other add-ins (nuts or chocolate chips, pictured).

A few tips on making good meringue:

• Make sure your mixing bowl is bone-dry: any liquid will kill your meringue's ability to foam up. Along these lines, add any extracts only after the meringue is made.
• Egg whites will whip up much more easily if at room temperature. Leave them out for a couple hours before beating, if possible.
• The standard egg:sugar ratio for meringue is 1 egg white per quarter-cup of sugar. I usually double this for a batch of meringues.
• Cream of tartar is an acid that helps increase the volume of, and stabilize, whipped egg whites. You only need a teeny bit -- about 1/4 tsp. for 6 egg whites, so a scant pinch for my recipe.
• Traditionally, the egg whites are whipped until soft peaks form, and only then is sugar added. There's nothing wrong with adding sugar earlier in the process -- promise, I've done it by accident many times -- but your eggs will take longer to foam up if there's sugar in them.
• There are two methods for baking meringues: some bake them for a couple hours in a low oven. Others bake them overnight in an oven that was preheated and then turned off. Either works; I prefer the former.

Keep these things in mind, and meringue will be your friend. Have any great uses for meringue? I'm already thinking of making a pavlova (big pillow of meringue topped with fruit and whipped cream) this weekend -- leave other great ideas in the comments.

2 large egg whites, at room temperature a scant pinch teaspoon cream of tartar a pinch kosher salt 1/2 cups granulated sugar, divided 1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract 1/2 cup high-quality chocolate chips, optional

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees F. Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk, beat the egg whites, cream of tartar, and a pinch of salt on medium speed until very soft peaks develop. Add 1/4 cup sugar and increase the speed to high until the egg whites form very stiff peaks. Whisk in the vanilla. Carefully fold the remaining 1/4 cup of sugar into the meringue. Either pipe the meringues onto the baking sheets using a pastry bag (or plastic bag with a bit cut off the end), or spoon them onto the sheets, au natural.

Bake for 2 hours, or until the meringues are dry and crisp but not browned. Turn off the heat and allow the meringues to sit in the oven for about half an hour**, then set on the counter to dry out completely.

**Meringues do not keep very well; they're best within a day of when they're made. However, if you do want to keep them, and it's not terribly humid outside, let them dry out in the oven overnight, or until the oven is completely cool and the meringues are really dry. They'll keep better this way. I stack them in tupperware between layers of parchment paper, and hope for the best.

The Makings of a Middle Eastern Lunch

Hard to believe it's already Thursday and another Saturday is nearly upon us. I'm still thinking about last weekend's 75-degree weather and super-chill Mediterranean style lunch. A trip to NYC will prevent me from repeating that meal this Saturday, but if I could, I would, in half a heartbeat. It's the obvious way straight to my heart: breads, spreads, salad, and a glass of wine. Easy to please, no?

I might as well pass along the recipes I used in case you're interested in replicating my lunch last Saturday. Really not hard, really really tasty. Whip up a greek salad to accompany the spreads here, get (or make) some good pita or laffa (shepherd bread), and wash it all down with some cold, fruity white wine. My mouth is totally watering.

First up: Muhamarra, the Syrian red pepper and walnut spread with a kiss of pomegranate syrup. Next, a lovely walnut hummus from Heidi at 101 cookbooks topped with paprika and sumac, the tart Middle Eastern condiment. Finally, labneh (at long last) -- the thick, tangy yogurt cheese finished with a drizzle of good olive oil and a sprinkling of za'atar, a Middle Eastern plant ground into a fine powder and mixed with sesame seeds.

Last week was the first time in a long time that I've been able to bring a part of my experience in Israel into my home in DC, and I'm still riding the wave.

(Also -- shout out to my little bro, who turned 23 today. Yowza!)

Muhammara adapted from Epicurious

1 12-ounce jar roasted red bell peppers in olive oil with garlic, drained 1 cup walnuts 1/3 cup breadcrumbs 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 2 teaspoons pomegranate molasses or fresh lemon juice 1 teaspoon ground cumin 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper Pita chips

Blend all ingredients except pita chips in processor until coarse puree forms. Season with salt. Transfer to bowl; serve with chips.

Hummus en Fuego adapted from 101 Cookbooks

1/2 cup walnuts, toasted 2 cups cooked (or canned) garbanzo beans, drained 1-2 medium cloves garlic, to taste juice of 1 lemon (about 4 tablespoons) 1/4-1/2 cup hot water 1/4 cup olive oil 1 Tbsp za'atar (or paprika)

To make the hummus, give the walnuts a spin in the food processor, just until they are a sandy texture. Add most of the garbanzos, 1 or 2 tablespoons of the oil, 1 clove garlic, and lemon juice. Now process until smooth. Drizzle in the water a bit at a time and puree more, until the hummus is creamy and billowy. Taste; if desired, add the second garlic clove. Let the processor run for a minute or so at this point, to incorporate air into the puree and give it a light texture. Taste, adjust the seasoning - more salt, more lemon juice, etc.

Serve in a shallow bowl, drizzled with plenty of the remaining oil and paprika, sumac, za'atar or other Middle Eastern spice. Heidi garnishes with cured olives and red pepper oil, another lovely option.

Makes roughly 2 1/2 cups.

Labneh

1 quart greek or regular yogurt 1 tsp salt olive oil za'atar

Stir salt into yogurt. Line a wire mesh strainer with either cheesecloth (at least two layers) or paper towels. Spoon yogurt into strainer; set over a bowl, cover loosely with saran wrap, and refrigerate overnight. In the morning, bowl will contain much of the whey. For regular yogurt, strain an additional 3-4 hours or more, for maximum thicknes. Greek yogurt will be ready after about 8 hours.

Serve in a shallow bowl; drizzle olive oil, and top with a generous sprinkle of za'atar.