Simple antipasti

In Italy, antipasti are meant to whet your appetite. (Granted, when I ate out in Italy, my appetite needs little whetting -- what with all the whiffs of freshly-made pasta and roasted tomato sauce drifting from the kitchen to my table.) Nonetheless, in Italy, antipasti are simply appetizers, mere preludes to the main dish. In my house, they're just part of the meal. After all, roasted vegetables with a splash of quality balsamic vinegar and just the right amount of good olive oil make a perfect accompaniment to whatever's being served. In my humble opinion, they need not precede the main course -- in fact, they do just fine right alongside it. By far the best thing about antipasti is their simplicity. Season, drizzle, and roast, that's all there is to it! These simple steps work wonders for eggplant, zucchini, onions, tomatoes, even sweet potatoes. The trick is to slice thinly, and flip once half-way through the roasting process so that both sides crisp up. If you're sparing with the oil, as I am, best use a pastry brush, which will spread the oil over the entire surface without soaking them all too much. And while cooking spray is fine for the pan, I strongly recommend sticking to real olive oil for the vegetables themselves; olive oil is a strong player in the saturated, concentrated flavor that antipasti develop. I can safely say that this "recipe" has no recipe, but a method, instead: slice whatever vegetables you use about 1/4-1/8 inch thick, as uniformly as possible. Line a roasting pan with a single layer of vegetables. Brush each side with olive oil, sprinkle salt and pepper, and add herbs if you like (I favor sage for eggplant, and rosemary with sweet potatoes, onion, and a new addition -- turnips). Bake at around 400 degrees for 15-20 minutes until the tops are browned; flip, and bake another 10-15 minutes. Check regularly to avoid burning (which I unfortunately have a tendency to do!). Once the vegetables are out of the oven, transfer to a platter, drizzle with good balsamic vinegar, add salt and pepper to taste, and bring to room temperature before serving.

A Very Vegetarian Thanksgiving

Having spent 22 Thanksgivings with my family, I've seen my fair share of crowded dinner tables, overstuffed tummies and packed fridges. This year will be no exception. As promised, the array of dishes that my mom and I made for Thursday's feast is so vast, turkey simply will not be missed. We planned a menu with something for everyone (and too much for any one person) to eat. Below, I've outlined every step of our process, complete with shopping lists, directions, and substitutions for those with allergies or dislikes. I hope this comes intime for your prep, and as always, I'd love any and all feedback on recipes, readability, etc. Happy shopping, cooking, and eating!

SHOPPING LIST

Squash Stuffed With Red Quinoa, Pears and Cranberries

• 1 red onion
• 2 firm pears, any kind will do
• 1 stalk celery
• ¼ cup pecans
• 1 bunch fresh thyme
• 1 small container apple juice (total ½ cup)
• 1 small container vegetable broth (total 2 cups)
• 4 delicata squash, depending on size, or substitute butternut squash
• 1 box red quinoa; can substitute regular quinoa or wild rice

Jalapeno-Fruit Chutney

• 2 jalapeno chilies
• 1 package dried apricots
• 1 package cranberries
• small package crystallized ginger (total 1 Tbsp)
• white and brown sugar (total ½ cup of each)
• cloves, cinnamon, allspice, nutmeg – whichever you have

Cornbread Broccoli Rabe Strata

Note: we made half a recipe, in a square pan; we’re guessing people will love this, but they’ll only take one helping. It’s pretty rich!

• olive oil
• 1 head garlic (you’ll only need 1 clove for this)
• crushed red pepper flakes
• 1 lb. broccoli rabe, or rapini -- those big leaves with what look like little broccoli florets
• 1 red pepper
• 1 small container kalamata olives (total ¼ cup)
• 1 quart whole milk
• 8 eggs
• whatever you need to make cornbread – we do from scratch, but there are easy mixes out there as well
• 1 container ricotta cheese OR farmer cheese (we did farmer cheese, and prefer it)
• 1 block gruyere cheese (6 oz. total)

Mushroom Soup

• 1 ½ lbs. mushrooms of any kind (we used a mix of white, baby bella, cremini, chanterelles and shitake. If you’re on a budget, use baby bella and cremini, which run much cheaper than chanterelles and shiitake.)
• 8 cups of broth (we bought two cartons of no-chicken broth, which was perfect)
• 5 shallots
• 2 cloves of garlic (one head of garlic will suffice for all the recipes we made)

Squash Stuffed With Red Quinoa, Pears and Cranberries Quinoa adapted from “Cranberry Pear Wild Rice Stuffing” by Nava Atlas, chutney adapted from this recipe in delicious living magazine Serves 8-12.

Red Quinoa:

• • 2 cups vegetable broth or no-chicken broth
  • 1 box red quinoa (approximately 2 cups)
  • 1 red onion, diced small
  • 1 celery stalk, diced small
  • 2 medium firm pears, cored and diced
  • ½ cup dried cranberries
  • ¼ cup finely chopped pecans or walnuts
  • 1 tsp. fresh thyme (can substitute ½ tsp. dried thyme)
  • ½ cup apple or pear juice
  • 4 delicata squash, or substitute butternut

Fruit Chutney:

• • 1 cup dried apricots
  • 1 ½ cups water
  • ½ tsp cinnamon
  • 1 Tbsp. crystallized ginger, chopped
  • ¼ tsp. cloves
  • ¼ tsp. allspice
  • 1 package cranberries
  • 2 jalapeno peppers

For the Quinoa:

1. Bring the broth to a simmer in a saucepan over medium heat. Stir in the quinoa and cook according to the directions on the package. (We cooked ours over medium heat for ten or so minutes, then turned off the heat and let it steam the rest of the way.)
2. Once the heat has been turned off, add the diced pears and cover the pot, allowing them to par-cook with the quinoa.
3. Meanwhile, sauté onion and celery in a couple Tbsp of olive oil over medium heat, until soft and translucent. Add thyme, and continue to sauté. (Here’s the truth: we let the onion and celery go on a bit too long, and it got a bit charred…and delicious. I highly recommend charring the onion and celery!)
4. Add the cranberries, onion/celery/thyme, pecans and apple juice to the cooked quinoa, and toss. If needed, add salt and pepper.

For the Squash:

1. Slice squash lengthwise, and remove seeds. (If you save them, you can prepare them this way.)
2. Roast squash, upside down, in a pyrex with an inch of water in the bottom. For delicate, 30 minutes is plenty; butternut need about an hour. Remove squash from the oven when you can easily pierce their flesh with a fork.
3. Fill the crevices of the squash with the red quinoa filling.

For the Fruit Chutney:

1. Bring 1 ½ cups water to a boil and pour it over the apricots in a small bowl. Leave for ten minutes; this will reconstitute the apricots. Keep the liquid when done!
2. Meanwhile, roast the jalapeno peppers under the broiler until the skin blackens and develops blisters, 10-15 minutes. (If you have a gas stove, you can char them over an open flame much more quickly.) Remove them from the oven and insert them into a brown paper bag. Allow them to steam in the bag for 5 minutes, then remove them and slide their skins off under running water. Chop them into a fine dice; they should total about 2 Tbsp.
3. Into a pot on medium heat, add apricots, jalapeno, cranberries, crystallized ginger, spices and the leftover liquid from the apricots plus enough extra water to total 1 ¼ cups. Allow all of the ingredients to simmer until cranberries start to pop and the mixture gels, about 15 minutes. Remove from the heat, and allow the chutney to set.
4. Top squash and quinoa with a dollop of the chutney, and serve some alongside as well.

Alternative recipe: Add chickpeas to the quinoa, and mix in some salsa with the fruit chutney for a more savory topping.

Mushroom Soup Adapted from this recipe on Epicurious

• 1 ½ lbs. assorted mushrooms
• 5 shallots, diced
• 5 cloves garlic, chopped
• 3 Tbsp. olive oil
• 6 cups broth
• salt and pepper as needed

1. Rinse or wipe mushrooms clean, then pat dry; chop roughly into two or three pieces each. Save two or three mushrooms, which you can later chop and use as a garnish.
2. Sauté shallots and garlic in olive oil until soft and translucent.
3. Add mushrooms and sauté over medium-low heat until mushrooms start to emit liquid, about 10 minutes.
4. Add half the broth, and allow to simmer for 15 minutes.
5. Remove mushrooms and shallot pieces with a slotted spoon and put into a food processor. Puree them with 1 cup of broth until smooth. Return to the pot, add the rest of the broth, and simmer 15 more minutes. Remove from heat.
6. Serve warm, with mushroom garnish.

We also made:

• pumpkin bread
• pumpkin pie (my mom did this before I arrived, but I imagine her recipe is pretty standard)
• pumpkin cheese cake (I'll be getting this recipe soon!)

We will also be making:

• cornbread broccoli rabe strata (recipe from the New York Times; we're making half a recipe, and baking it in a square pan.)
• sweet potatoes two ways: with marshmallows, and with lime syrup
• a greek salad
• cranberry-etrog sauce
• apple-cranberry pie
• pecan pie

If I'm forgetting anything, it's hard to tell. See why it's so hard to miss turkey with this thanksgiving feast?

Moroccan Couscous

I'll admit that I'm not such a couscous fan. When I was 15, my summer camp took us on a five-day hiking trip through the Berkshire mountains. We carried everything with us on our backs: water, tents and poles, food for five days, clothing, etc. Breakfast was PB&J or granola bars, since they were light; dinner, five days in a row, was couscous; and lunch every day was ... you guessed it: leftover couscous. I guess 10 nearly-consecutive meals of just couscous did the trick. These days, I tend to stick with rice.

Sometimes, though, I make tagine. Tagine is a moroccan stew in which, traditionally, the meat and/or vegetables are slow-cooked in a large shallow clay bowl with a tall conical top. Tagine is traditionally served atop couscous, so in a pinch, I do have a go-to couscous recipe, which I'll share here.

Couscous is very simple to make: if you buy one of those Near East boxes, it's as simple as bring the requisite amount of water to a boil, adding the couscous, covering the pot, turning off the heat, and fluffling it with a fork five minutes later. I change things around, since the last thing I want is some boring couscous for dinner. Try this with a tagine recipe, or even as an accompaniment to tonight's veggies.

Moroccan Couscous (corrections appended)

serves 6-8.

1 box couscous

1 cup dried apricots, chopped

1 cup dried raisins

1/2 cup orange juice, substituted for 1/2 cup of the water called for in the recipe.

1 tsp. salt

1 tsp. cinnamon

1/2 tsp. nutmeg

1/2 tsp. cloves

1/8 tsp. star anise (optional)

1/4 tsp. powdered ginger (optional)

1/2 tsp. turmeric

a dash of olive oil

(If you don't have any of these ingredients, it's fine to go without. For example, the batch pictured above was made without anise, turmeric or cloves.)

For the fruit:

Bring 1/2 cup water to a boil. When it reaches a boil, pour it over the dried apricots and raisins in a small bowl. Allow this to sit for at least 15 minutes; this will reconstitute your fruit, making them plump and juicy. When 15 minutes have passed, do not spill out the water! Use it as part of the cooking liquid for the couscous.

For the couscous:

Bring two cups of liquid to a boil. I usually use 1/2 cup orange juice, and occasionally 1/2 cup white wine, and the rest either water or broth. Add all the other spices and ingredients to the pot as the liquid heats. When the liquid is boiling, add 2 cups of couscous. stir quickly, cover the pot, and turn off the heat. Let the couscous steam for 5 minutes, then uncover and fluff with a fork.

Add the dried apricots and raisins, and toss. Serve with almost anything.

Yellow Squash with basil and pine nuts

On last week's episode of The Splendid Table podcast, actor and writer Michael Tucker spoke of his experience living as an American in Italy. Aside from the obvious challenges adapting to a foreign language and culture, he has learned an entirely different way of cooking since moving to the small town of Umbria. Something he said about cooking really struck me: he said that his cooking trajectory has been much like a bell curve. As he learned more about food and cooking and discovered his love for all things culinary, he acquainted himself with new, often obscure ingredients. He bought many a kitchen gadget. Basically, his cooking became more and more complicated. But being in Italy changed that. In Italy, Tucker and his wife eat mostly at home and in family-owned restaurants, where food is composed entirely of local, fresh ingredients, preparations are dead simple, and nothing is more delicious. He's learned to focus less on how many ingredients go into a dish or how labor intensive the process is, and focus instead on using few but quality ingredients and precise but simple methods. The locals of Umbria, he says, consider these "rules" of good cooking nothing less than homage to long-time traditions.

I'm trying to go with the simple theme these days. It may not be evident from some of the recipes I've posted lately, which I admit are often more intricate and work-intensive than I intend. But I do usually find that simple is best; it allows me to have maximum control over what I put into my food and what it looks like when I serve it.

This was one of the dishes we served on Sunday. As I was rummaging through my vegetable drawer to make Ina Garten's vegetable torte, I saw four cute baby yellow squash from last week's CSA that I'd totally forgotten about. Never sure about how much food it takes to feed an army of guests, I figured I might as well use what I had. This squash antipasto is super quick to throw together, and as you can see, it looks really pretty.

Yellow Squash with Basil and Pine Nuts

four small yellow squash
good olive oil
good balsamic vinegar*
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
a handful of pine nuts
a few sprigs of fresh basil

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. Slice squash lengthwise into 1/4-inch slices.
3. Spread squash in a single layer on a non-stick or sprayed baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil, and sprinkle salt and pepper overtop.
4. Roast squash for about 20 minutes, until soft and golden but not burnt.
5. Fan out squash decoratively on a small plate. Top with pine nuts and basil, another drizzle of olive oil, and several spoonfuls or balsamic vinegar.

Serve warm or at room temperature.

*a note about balsamic vinegar: I don't have the real stuff, which can cost 50 bucks for a teeny little bottle. Instead, I buy good regular balsamic from the grocery store, several bottles at a time, and then reduce it to about a third of its original volume. Real balsamic has a syrupy texture that's much less liquidy than what's sold here in grocery stores, and a balsamic reduction like the one described here mimics that thickness well. Danielle from Habeas Brulee will be the first to warn you, though -- when you do this, it makes your whole house smoky and vinegar-smelling, so do it when you're home alone!